THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Curious what others experiences are with the Split Axle Boots.
It is certainly far more convenient to install then pulling Axles,
especially the front Diff.

BUT! I noticed that on both my trucks, each of which have a Split
boot on the Front Left Axle, have developed a crack just above
the bolted ...

I've missed your postings Propinz !!

Glad to hear from you. Summer now in the labd of Oz Eh.

cheers

Hmmm... that's interesting. I go by page 24 section "O" of the repair manual.
I've ignored those cold/hot settings as being bogus. Although I have assumed
they were at idle as it doesn't say one way or the other.

The graph on pg 24 shows the desired advance vs RPM. At 900 RPM between
0 to 8 degrees ...

A bit of splitting hairs -- so to speak.

Lets say cold is 25C and hot is 100C. Then the centrifugal force springs
are going to have a lower spring constant at hot, and thus a bit more
advance. So they are compensating for cold vs hot springs.

Just ignore this. The advance for the Pinz is set for ...

No practical way to do that. All you need to do is hand-lap until the
head mating surface looks consistent. Your just taking off any dings
and slight unevenness. Any micro-gaps will self-seal with carbon.

The only potential issue is if the head warped due to over heating
or being over torqued ...

You mean MENTAL issues

A polish on the cylinder is an OK thing to do, I never had one that needed it.

To hand lap the head to the cylinder, lock the cylinder in a vise, apply lapping
compound to the head, place the head on the cylinder and rotate back and forth
checking until done -- it can be time consuming.

Sealing ...

What's your end goal here? Are you going to hone and re-ring?

In any case the standard approach is to hand-lap the heads to
their respective cylinders. Or if $'s are no object get them fly cut.

I've done several top ends and hand lapped with good results.

BTW now that the heads or off, you really ...

OK, well that should help. But it's still odd that this 712 is that hot
given the conditions are not that severe.

Don't forget to check timing. There's a recent thread on this forum
for how to do so. Rev her up and make sure your getting progressively
more advance with RPM. If you run with ...

What you are describing fits a heat soak condition into the intake manifolds.

These are under the tin, inside the cooling plenum. They connect directly to
the intake ports of the heads and can get hot when the engine is turned off
with no airflow for cooling. If they get too hot atomized fuel in ...

Hard one to diagnose.

But... You say first start up it runs fine, does it continue to run well for an extended
period of time without stumbling?

After you stop and then let it rest for 15 to 30 minuets THEN it runs like crap, if you
run it for some time after it ran poorly does it then ...

Should be just fine -- dialed into the right profile; LEd Acid, AGM or LPF.

Beats me what the gain is, but it can't be anything good

I believe the eSteering units come from Ezpowersteering out of the UK ?
https://www.ezpowersteering.co.uk/car-brands/pinzgauer/pinzgauer-710-en/pinzgauer-pinzgauer/

Same ECU and motor at least. If you click on the manuals tab above link there's
installation instructions but they woefully lack ...

I run a PinzSSI 2.0 (PowerARC ignition) in my 712. I've had some challenges through the years
biggest PITA being dust contamination (my fix for that later). Overall it has been a good upgrade.

A concern is the End of Life announcement due to retirement at PowerARC. It's been a good run
for them ...