THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Does anyone know if you can fit a Petronix 2 instead of Petronix 1? I do not think the 2s come in 24volt

Does anybody know the parts number from Petronix? I read that some of their systems retardant the timing on start up. Wonder if that is what is on my truck

If you look on page 22 it descibez the procedure and it is pretty purely static.

Also, I think the curves on page 24 are degrees of advance above static, not total advance, but they are probably close to the same.

I wonder if the factory timing was ping limited or max power. They spec 87 RON fuel ...

Ron, but this is for static timing. Motor is not turning so the spring rate should not matter?

In both my operators manual and my repair manual the static ignition timing is shown as 1-3 mm ATDC with the engine cold and 0-2 BTDC warm. I do not understand why it is different cold/warm nor have I ever seen this with any other motor. Does anybody know what this is about?

I seem to recall on some vehicle I worked on you could get an idea of clutch wear by the position of the pushrod that disengages it. If I remember correctly, if your clutch started to slip you could grind a little off the pushrod and limp home. Does this ring a bell?

My truck gets stinky exhaust if I se the idle too low. I suspect it gets exhaust gas reversion. The. Manual recommends 900 to 1000 RPM and they were a bit adamant about it. Reversion was a big thing back then because it created high hydrocarbon emissions at idle.

Is there a way to test for a leak between cylinder and head? Something like looking in the radiator for bubbles

I should have said “When it is below 104f 10W30 is a little thinner than SAE 10”

I just went through a bit of studying on oil for the Pinz. Here is my 2 cents:

First any oil you can buy today is better than what was available in 1972. In 1972 the oil changed in viscosity a lot more than modern oil. Even modern SAE 30 is something like 20w30. My Pinz manual says to use SAE 30 ...

I found my oil leak. Not only were the seals bad on the pushrod tubes and drain tubes, the drain tubes themselves were bad. They were all rubbing against a fin on the jugs. They were all worn badly, some to the point of leaking.

It seems like the real bugaboo with using the intake manifold to supply the motive force for ventilation is that it will mess up the air/fuel ratio. I would think the current set up would work pretty well if you just added a filtered air inlet into the crankcase somewhere. Again I am thinking maybe ...

Something I have learned recently is that during WW II some trucks used base pressure from the engines to slightly pressurize the gear boxes during fording. This extra pressure assured that no water got into the gear boxes. My understanding was that it was something you would only use when fording.

Ron,

#4 cylinder had low compression and some oil fouling of the plug. My original intention was to change just that cylinder/piston/head. I found lots of oil/crude on the cooling fins, apparently from the seals on the pushrod tubes so we pulled all the cylinders and heads to clean the cooling ...

Colder on a gasoline engine could be related to a richer mixture. I assume this is at idle? If so, try fiddling with idle mixture screw on that cylinder to see if it changes temperature.