THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I was wondering how many guys use this tool and is it worth it...versus a vacuum bleeder from HF?

Thanks!

I don't know anything about either of those bleeders. I use a Schuco-Vac medical suction pump. It's a 110v pump with high power suction; I just hook the hose to the bleeder valve on the dif and keep it sucking while someone is adding fluid to the reservoir and I keep it going until the stuff coming out looks nice and clean. You can get these on ebay for about a hundred bucks, but I think it's worth it; I don't think any other bleeding method can really pull the old gunk out of the lines like this can.

Cool! Can the suction from that thing damage anything? Seals etc?

I would imagine not since it's just sucking fluid through from the reservoir which will have the cap off. If you were just sucking against an open bleeder valve with the cap on the reservoir, I don't know if it would damage anything or not, It's possible I guess, or it may just collapse it's own hose. I just don't see a reason for it to damage anything as long as you are just sucking fluid through... in one end and out the other. If you have a clog in the line that's stuck so hard that the pump damages the system, I suppose the system was screwed anyway. All I really know for sure is that my hydraulics were in bad shape and my lockers were not engaging, so this was what I did and now I have no hydraulic troubles at all. I did the brakes this way too.

cool tool, would make life a lot easier

I have a power bleeder that I got from EI, can't remember the name of the mfgr. Had it for years and used it on the Mog, now the pinz.
Only issue I had is that when putting the cap on the res the hose would twist and kink. Now there is a swivel in the line that I installed
and it works great. Only twisted on the pinz as it is very tight for the locker res. Only needs about 10 lbs pressure and when under the
vehicle it is very handy not to have to pump anything to clean the lines.

krick3tt wrote:I have a power bleeder that I got from EI, can't remember the name of the mfgr. Had it for years and used it on the Mog, now the pinz.
Only issue I had is that when putting the cap on the res the hose would twist and kink. Now there is a swivel in the line that I installed
and it works great. Only twisted on the pinz as it is very tight for the locker res. Only needs about 10 lbs pressure and when under the
vehicle it is very handy not to have to pump anything to clean the lines.

Ya, it is the same one. EI doesn't list it anymore so I went to eBay. I bought the one with the 45MM cap (http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/ ... p_115.html) which fits the Pinz locker and clutch resevoirs. The dual brake resevoirs look smaller.....

Found out the black label with the 1109 adapter is the same as the 1101, just an aluminum adapter, 3' more hose and swivel.

One thing. The dual brake reservoirs ...DO NOT TAKE OFF THE WHITE OUTSIDE CAPS. Only take off the center metal cap. It is the same size as the
locker and clutch cap. If you take off the outside caps you are in for a world of trouble...Of course you can ask how I know!!!!

krick3tt wrote:One thing. The dual brake reservoirs ...DO NOT TAKE OFF THE WHITE OUTSIDE CAPS. Only take off the center metal cap. It is the same size as the
locker and clutch cap. If you take off the outside caps you are in for a world of trouble...Of course you can ask how I know!!!!

Thanks for that! I never realized the centre cap, well, was a cap....It just unscrews?? (Stupid question, I know...) Any special method to bleed being a two reservoir?

Check with your maintenance manual. My understanding is that there are two because one is a backup.
Once the centre cap is off the bleeding is done just like everything else. Make sure there is plenty of fluid
in the bleeder so there is no need to keep checking the fluid levels in the reservoir. Getting air in the lines
sort of defeats the reason for the job.

Since you are bleeding the lines, might be a good idea to suck out all the fluid in the two tanks so that the
crud in the bottom of them isn't going down the lines. I did that on the lockers and it was amazing how much
debris was in there, almost black liquid. Hard to see in them as the plastic gets old, dusty and discolors.
That is going to be a PITA on the reservoirs so a small flex line might help. With a turkey baster.
I did it right from the top as I had removed the white caps first. So very wrong thing to do. The little 'O' rings are
a real pain to get back in.

Have a few of the little valves on hand to replace any that might break when you try to loosen them. They are
fairly fragile metal. I've done that. Had to use a special socket type wrench to get at the ones on the front wheels
when doing the brakes. I have a friend here that helped me the first time and without his help I would have been
lost, or at the least very confused. Thanks Terry.
Be sure to cap them to keep dirt out on the trail, too. Mine were missing caps. Same as the little rubber caps
from Napa or any brake/auto store.

Happy trails

I use a Mightyvac MV8020: http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp
It's easy to suck the reservoirs clean, so you're starting with clean fluid. Plus, the small cup keeps me from sucking too much fluid through without remembering to refill the reservoir.

The front bleeders can be easily dealt with, by using a deep socket. First, use the socket with handle to make sure the bleeder comes loose - retighten and remove the socket. Next, put the bleeder hose onto the bleeder, then slip the deep socket over it. Then use a Vice Grip clamped onto the socket to loosen/tighten the bleeder.

undysworld wrote: The front bleeders can be easily dealt with, by using a deep socket. First, use the socket with handle to make sure the bleeder comes loose - retighten and remove the socket. Next, put the bleeder hose onto the bleeder, then slip the deep socket over it. Then use a Vice Grip clamped onto the socket to loosen/tighten the bleeder.

Thanks for the tip!

I did some searching on bleeding, and I came across a post Jim made about checking the rubber couplings and Tees. Well, good thing I did (Thanks Jim!). My T coupling is cracked to hell. I am really surprised it hasn't leaked, so I can only image what pressure would do to it. I am going to order the kit from SAV this week. Looks like I will have to drain the system anyway to get the couplings replaced.

krick3tt wrote:Check with your maintenance manual. My understanding is that there are two because one is a backup.
Once the centre cap is off the bleeding is done just like everything else. Make sure there is plenty of fluid
in the bleeder so there is no need to keep checking the fluid levels in the reservoir. Getting air in the lines
sort of defeats the reason for the job.

Since you are bleeding the lines, might be a good idea to suck out all the fluid in the two tanks so that the
crud in the bottom of them isn't going down the lines. I did that on the lockers and it was amazing how much
debris was in there, almost black liquid. Hard to see in them as the plastic gets old, dusty and discolors.
That is going to be a PITA on the reservoirs so a small flex line might help. With a turkey baster.
I did it right from the top as I had removed the white caps first. So very wrong thing to do. The little 'O' rings are
a real pain to get back in.

Have a few of the little valves on hand to replace any that might break when you try to loosen them. They are
fairly fragile metal. I've done that. Had to use a special socket type wrench to get at the ones on the front wheels
when doing the brakes. I have a friend here that helped me the first time and without his help I would have been
lost, or at the least very confused. Thanks Terry.
Be sure to cap them to keep dirt out on the trail, too. Mine were missing caps. Same as the little rubber caps
from Napa or any brake/auto store.

Happy trails

Thanks!

CentAr712 wrote:I don't know anything about either of those bleeders. I use a Schuco-Vac medical suction pump. It's a 110v pump with high power suction; I just hook the hose to the bleeder valve on the dif and keep it sucking while someone is adding fluid to the reservoir and I keep it going until the stuff coming out looks nice and clean. You can get these on ebay for about a hundred bucks, but I think it's worth it; I don't think any other bleeding method can really pull the old gunk out of the lines like this can.

These are great. I did all the lockers with this over the weekend. The old mityvac may never get used again.

Anyone reverse bleed their brakes?
Push fluid from the wheels up into the resevoir - stops crud from going down into the lines and air does rise.
Motorcycle guys like this method and I know a few Mog guys do too