THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

This is probably fairly straightforward but I'd rather ask for help before I need it than after. Any tips or techiniques for removing the old steering wheel and installing the new? I don't have a steering wheel puller but could probably borrow one if needed.

Thanks in advance.

Paul

If you choose to do it old-school ,as pull-rock method,leave the nut on a coupla turns ,don't ask me why ....my memory is still foggy!
Mark

Are the new ones softer/rubber covered? I have an old style and all the paint has pealed off the spokes and the rim is VERY hard plastic. Wouldn't mind getting a newer one.

I just took the steering column and steering wheel into the shop to have a billet made that will accept the standard three bolt aftermarket steering wheels. Once the billets are done any steering wheel with the three bolt pattern will bolt up. I have adapted a couple of Schroeder steering wheels to the pinz and really enjoy the large soft outer foam when driving (alot easier to hang onto with the old hands) Pictures of my steering wheel are in the yahoo Pinzgauer photo section under Mike's 712.

M Wehrman wrote:If you choose to do it old-school ,as pull-rock method,leave the nut on a coupla turns ,don't ask me why ....my memory is still foggy!
Mark

Mark,

Ah yes, the old pull & rock method - I'm having flashbacks to my '73 Pinto and a Momo steering wheel. I think the concussion is finally healed! Thanks for the reminder about leaving the nut on

Todd,

The new wheel is due here in a day or 2. I'll let you know what it's like. I now have the one like you described - very chipped, worn and hard as a rock.

Paul

Gents
Undue force on the steering wheel can bend/deform the wheel, it is meant to be that way to prevent severe injury in the event of an accident.

The wheel can be exceptionally tight on the column shaft and we use a puller for that removal task. You can use a suitable three leg tool that will grasp the underside of the hub, just beware that aggressive force will delaminate the coating. There is also a leg puller available that has rubber sleeves on the legs that can also grap the spokes to aid removal.
Should you need to do loaner, I saw our local Checker Auto shop was trumpeting their availability, see if a similar outlet in your area has 'em available for rent.

As a final note if you are contemplating a wheel change make sure you buy a replacement that is approved. There are lots of wheels that are not type approved for sale and can result in serious injury should you have a serious front ender!
Dennis

There are lots of wheels that are not type approved for sale and can result in serious injury should you have a serious front ender!

Other than one made of razor wire, I don't see how there could be a more dangerous one than the one I have on her know. That thing is a definite chest crusher.

Pcollette, thanks, I'll be interested to hear if you think the swap was worth it.

The new steering wheel arrived and is installed - thanks for the tips and cautions! For clarification, this wheel is the later model Pinz wheel as sold by SAV, #7102473052. The old one came off fairly easy with some rocking, pulling and careful taps with a deadblow hammer on the backside. (of the wheel, not mine!)

The new wheel, while not soft, is much more comfortable with a textured sort of hard rubber surface which covers the entire wheel. Much easier to grip and easier on the hands. It also doesn't slip when wearing gloves for those of us in the snow belt.

If you are thinking of upgrading, be aware that there is a metal part (they call it a tappet in the parts book) that is attached to the back of the wheel and must be transferred to the new wheel as its purpose is to turn off the turn signal after a turn. It is held on with 4 very small machine screws that came with very nicely pre-stripped heads on 3 of mine. Be prepared to drill them out if needed and have repalcement screws on hand, or take a quick trip to the hardware store like I did.

Overall a worthwhile upgrade IMHO.

Paul

Thanks!

Darn it! You just made me order one. All your fault (that's what I telling the girlfriend anyway).

As far as the "tappet". My steering column has a raised plate on the left side that trips the turn signal shut off. Wonder if there are more than one style?

Gents
The Pinz standard wheel might seem to be a chest crusher until you have seen a few after several rollovers and front end crunches.

I would be more worried about a good front ender that results in serious leg crushing; The Pinz is woefully weak in that area and with its flimsy seat base anchorages, detachment is often a distinct possibility together with poor door latching resulting in possible ejection from the vehicle. I have a specimen in the back of my shop to prove it.

Juergen and I exchanged crash info several years ago, some of that appeared in these forums, what didn't appear was a damning litany of serious crash survivability defects reported by the (then) German Fed Rep TUV inspectorate.

Dennis
Just drive carefully

lindenengineering wrote:<snip>The Pinz is woefully weak in that area and with its flimsy seat base anchorages, detachment is often a distinct possibility together with poor door latching resulting in possible ejection from the vehicle. <snip>

What about the seat belt anchorage? What was your conclusion about that?

That was my question too.
What advice can I get regarding seatbelts fastening.

Roman

Lets face it gents...if we have a front ender at high speeds we are toast! All the seat belts are going to do is hold us in place so we can be extracted in somewhat collective pieces. Hate to be such a realist but the facts are known and we take the chances.

As far as crash dynamics go everything in front of the axle is part of the crush zone