Ball joint front axle leak

[Jerbearyukon]

From the picture can anyone tell me what I need to replace?





thanks

Jer Bear

[pcolette]

I believe it's this part:

http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 101422991/

Paul C

[Jerbearyukon]

so do you have to pull the whole thing apart or just pull out some bolts or screws?

Thanks for the help bud

jer Bear

[pcolette]

I haven't done one but I think Paul Underwood has - maybe he'll chime in here.

I'm thinking that since it's described as a split seal that maybe only the retaining ring has to be loosened and slid out of the way to replace the seal :?:

Paul C

[krick3tt]

I had a similar leak, not visibly that bad, but it was repaired by the folks at EI.

I watched the repair: the metal ring was unbolted and the old seal removed, the area cleaned and a new seal installed.
The new seal was split and superglued together in place of the old one. The seal was left to 'set' and the assembly was put back together with the split at the top.

Have had no problems since. I did buy another seal to replace the other side should it have a problem since they are probably the same age. It is still in the package in my garage. Just insurance.

Morris

[audiocontr]

Mine did the same on both sides. Tightening the screws on the plate ever so gently did the trick.

[milesdzyn]

If the rubber seal is just worn down and not damaged, you may be able to extend the life of these seals.

Get a sheet of gasket material thats .015-.025 range thick. Cut out a gasket that fits between the rubber seal and metal ring, this effectivly will increase the pressure you can apply onto the seal without damaging/crushing the metal ring. If your seal is worn to much you may have to go with thicker gasket material.

This would be a good field repair solution as well. I think I'll have to make me up some of these for my field repairs kit.

Miles

[Jim LaGuardia]

Miles, unfortunately that won't work. Once the rubber is hard with age and the sealing lip is damaged, no amount of shimming will work. These seals are not hard to install, even on the trail.
You must of course use the type with no garter spring on the lip seal. Just cut the seal with a razor blade, super glue it at the cut once over the knuckle and retorque the seal ring.
Don't forget to top off the portal, and recheck level after short drive

[totaljoint]

I get the impression from this and other recent threads, that to go off trail I should carry this knucle seal, super glue- and a spare fuel pump.

There was a previous thread of suggested spare parts for an extended expedition, but what would the senior/experienced forum members reccomend we carry along (in the way of parts) for the day trip off road? What's the most common break downs that keeps these trucks from being self propelled?

[Kirby]

I get the impression from this and other recent threads, that to go off trail I should carry this knucle seal, super glue- and a spare fuel pump.

There was a previous thread of suggested spare parts for an extended expedition, but what would the senior/experienced forum members reccomend we carry along (in the way of parts) for the day trip off road? What's the most common break downs that keeps these trucks from being self propelled?

Good question, I would imagine a bigger tool box to put the parts in. I carry a fan belt, fuel filter and I don't go too far away, but in 6+ years I have never broke down - so it is hard for me to come up with a list.

[4x4Pinz]

I don't see any need to carry the knuckle seal in a field repair kit. This is one of those repairs that should be done before going out. The field repair kit should include but not limited to points (and all the items needed to convert back to points if you run petronix), distributor cap, rotor, coil (a 12v coil works in an emergency), 2 spare spark plug wires (I carry an old #3 and #4 as they are long enough to reach any one), an extra spark plug, fuel pump rebuild kit, small amount of spare fluids (brake, motor oil, gear oil), fan belt, and for goodness sakes get an air compressor even if it is a cheap one (those with the stock rims seem to always be losing their bead seal). With all the trail time I get between my 710 and 712 these are the only items that have made it so that I don't get stranded on the trail, short of weird accidents (can't carry a complete spare truck with you)

[Jim LaGuardia]

If you damage a seal on the trail, just rotate the damaged part to the top till you get home, this will prevent fluid loss. Just try to keep out of water till repaired.
My only suggested tool box spares are tire plug kit, cap, rotor, coil, plugs(for longer trips), a carb kit, fuel pump kit or spare pump, fuel line(5mm and 7mm).

You really don't need anything on most trips....................as long as you have COMMON SENSE

Most damage occours after three words are uttered........."Hey watch this"

[Jerbearyukon]

So I need to order the seals right and fix it asap...right....then top up the portals -

what type of fluid goes in the portals?

Jer

[milesdzyn]

Sure Jim ruin all my fun.

When I had mine apart last, they were still soft, never thought they would get hard since they are not subjected to high intensity heat and always in contact with oil.

Speaking of supper glue several field repairs seem to require it. This is a great way to buy it for small fixes.


Miles

[Jerbearyukon]

Well I took some advice and went to torque the scrape plate and the bolts were loose...crap i hate that ...I just saw the leak and cleaned it up and didn't even check the bolts to see if they were loose....

So I changed the fluids - took her for a spin - came back checked levels again and had to add a bit in one, but the other was fine.

Perrrrrrrrrrrfect...thanks again for all the ppl that chimed in here

jer Bear