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rmel wrote: Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:06 pm IMHO, add a Oil pressure sender and a Oil Temp sender -- esp. Temp.
Pressure senders typically have the idiot contact -- LOW pressure and
an analog output for actual pressure. Well worth the addition for
piece of mind.

Good advice - I have the oil temp already but adding an actual pressure gauge would be beneficial

I use the VDO Oil pressure gauge with a two terminal sender; analog pressure (10 to 180 ohms),
and the Idiot contact. You can get these senders with Metric M10 or M14 or NPT. Also a choice
in the low pressure trip level -- pretty cool. Here's a link ala eGuages

https://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails. ... gIH_PD_BwE

rmel wrote: Tue Jun 05, 2018 9:34 pm I use the VDO Oil pressure gauge with a two terminal sender; analog pressure (10 to 180 ohms),
and the Idiot contact. You can get these senders with Metric M10 or M14 or NPT. Also a choice
in the low pressure trip level -- pretty cool. Here's a link ala eGuages

https://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails. ... gIH_PD_BwE

How did you plumb it all up - ie where did you install the sender?
Thx

At least on my Pinz, the dual function Sender replaces the stock sender.
One terminal connects to the dash Oil light, it's just an ON/OFF switch
so the old indicator will work just fine. The other terminal is basically a
poteniometer, which connects to the VDO gauge, these typically req.
+12V to operate and a second voltage (switched) for illumination.

The biggest challenge will be where to put the gauge. Once you go down
that path then your gonna think, hmmm, well, may as well find a spot to
add more than just one gauge, why not 3 or 4 more Like, Oil Pressure,
Fuel Pressure, AFR, TOD -- that's where I ended up

i had to make the same decision but as i dont have any problems with oilpressure i went with the temperature gage from vdo in 24v.(btw, the manual says what i remember that a flashing or lightning from the pressure ligth in idle in hot temps is normal aslong it goes away when reving a bit up)
after installing the temp sensor in the oilfiltercase(there is a falt spot under the upper pressure sensor to drill) and also cleaning the oilcooler inside and outside(2/3 clogged) and also checking the thermoelement, i dont think its absolutley nescessary for a temp gauge, becaus wether its hot or cold outside, if you´re driving it not too extreme the oil temp hardly ever got over 90°C. the cooling system is very effective. more intresting for wintertemps to see when it´s operating temp is reached.
also ther are combined gauges (temp and pressure in one) which is pretty nice because of the lack of room but sadly not in the vdo design which i like very much for the pinz but if thats no a point i´d be an option

boeing7873 wrote: Mon Jun 04, 2018 7:43 pm Oil too thin for temperature? I run 20W50 summertime.

Thinking of Joe Gibbs 15W50 air cooled oil
Anyone have any thoughts on that one - has higher zinc etc
https://www.drivenracingoilsales.com/dt ... hetic-oil/

Probably belongs on a different topic -- but here goes.

Check the API designation for this Oil. By way of example, most motor oils off
the shelf are "SM" which has insufficient levels of anti wear agents e.g. ZDDP
as that does attack the plating in the cat converters. Good to use is API designation
CJ-4 (not to be confused with Jeep Oil ), is primarily used for Diesel engines
has sufficient levels of ZDDP. Look for the designations not the marketing.
BTW too much ZDDP has negative side-effects too.

I have no particular negative reason to use Joe's Oil, other than Oil is not their
primary business -- it's racing, building racing machines, and not running a
chem lab with PhD's formulating Oils and additives. So at best they know what's
good but are using a Blender to make the product for them. This Oil is also
claimed to be a Synthetic, is this 100% synthetic or a hybrid? The Aircraft guys
typically recommend hybrids and not to use 100% Synthetics as these Aircooled
engines are designed do deplete/burn Oil to some degree so there is concern
about ash residue and deposits from the Synthetic.

IMHO, I'd stick with a large petro-chemical company but use proper formulation,
CJ-4, Aviation grade Ashless Oil from Phillips, Areoshell, etc. targeted for Aircooled
and solid lifters like Lycomin -- IMHO is a good choice, but a bit expensive.

Message for Paul C.

This short blinking of the red oil light, after hard driving for 2 hours, is described in the Pinzgauer Repair manual and accepted
Good luck.
Jules

Very interesting - thank you!

hey guys
i had a talk with my mechanic who is working on pinz at öbh from the beginning a few moths ago about the same topic with flashing oil light in ideling.
better said he told me the problem and i guessed the cause. came out that the seal at the oilpump was broken and it cauesed the exact same problems.
u said that ur engine is overhauled so i think there shouldnt be a problem but possibilities are always good to kbow