Distributor Purchase

[russ]

Honestly, if you can pop the adapter from the distributor without putting pressure on the cap you're good. What I have done is to make a slight notch in the adapter plate where I put in a wide screw driver and just pop it up when I need to remove. It works fine and stays sealed. Cap never needs to be removed from adapter until it is worn out and then who cares how you remove it.

[russ]

Jim, I may try that next time on the adapter plate to distributor. Sounds like a good idea.

[ExpeditionImports]

Hi Mike,

You are definitely in the minority as there are well over 1500 of the adapters out on the market. I'd call that a pretty good test base. Water intrusion into the distributor is not a common problem. Check the following items:

#1 - Vacuum Line - There must be a brass restrictor on this line or it acts as a major vaccuum and pulls water into the distributor.

#2 - O-ring missing in the distributor housing.

#3 - What cap are you using? Bosch or cheap autoparts replacements. All of the adapters on the market were designed for the Bosch cap....so while a autozone cap may save you $3-4, it might actually cause you problems with a tight fit in the adapter. Make sure that the "nub" on the cap is ground off prior to installation or it will not seat properly.

#4 - For deep water usage be sure to plug off the vent holes in the distributor, and use a thin bead of silicone between the cap/adapter/housing.

3-4 years ago we de-bunked the water tightness arguement at one of the mogfests when we turned on a water hose full blast on a running cap adapter installed on a Unimog. 10 minutes of solid stream and it was still running like a top.

Hope this helps,

CHeers,

Scott

[mjnims]

Scott
I figured I would be in the minority but is seems that I am almost always in the minority when driving my pinz's. I ask a lot out of my trucks and they always seem to come through. This is just a minor glitch that I am sure is something simple.

the restrictor is in the vacuum line and clear
the oring is present and in good condition
I am using the bosch cap (actually two one for backup) both of them I got from EI
The vent holes were not plugged off until yesterday
I had put some silicon between the cap and the adapter plate but found it difficult to remove cap when needed. I have been using teflon tape rolled up to make an oring for the grove which works very well.

Currently I beleive the problem is from the vent holes. The last time it got water/mud into the distributor the surface just next to the oring was covered in a fine residue of mud. In all cases before the residue was on the inside of the cap and on most all surfaces making it difficult to tell where the water came in . I have been out a once with the holes plugged off as Jim described and have not had an issue. I am going to try again with a little more speed and see what happens.

What a tough problem to have living in the desert and all.

[andy]

I don't know if it would help with this problem, but there is some stuff out called Liquid Tape. In the past it has always come in a small, large mouthed, can and you used a little brush to put it on. Last week WalMart had the same product in a spray can. I haven't had any broken connectors or wires to try it on yet. I do know the stuff in the original can works well for what I use it for.

Andy

[ExpeditionImports]

You guys are talking about removing your cap from the adapter as if this is a regular occurence? Realistically this should be once every year or two at tune-up time when you are replacing the cap anyways. Please don't tell me that is how you are opening up the internals of the distributor?

When going into your points/pertronix, you should be removing the entire adapter ring with the cap, just like the original cap. 3 reasons for this: #1 you want to keep the cap mounting flange in pristine condition as the cap should be a good fit, #2 I would much prefer you tightening/loosening the bolts on the adapter versus the clamps which are not as robust as a flat plate surface, #3 you need to re-time the truck everytime you remove it from the adapter as you cannot guarantee exact orientation, whereas your timing never changes when you remove/re-insall the entire cap adapter assembly.

Personally once we install a cap into the adapter with RTV, the only time I am replacing that cap is if it is bad or at tune-up, in which case I could care less if it breaks upon removal.

Cheers,

Scott

[lindenengineering]

Scott
It's a "hear hear" (LIKE IN PARLIAMENT) to your comprehensive post.

I would just like to add that a twice yearly squirt or two of engine oil into the adv section will lube that upper bush in the diz housing and will keep the weights lubed if owners will put an addition drop on the felt wick under the rotor cap.

"Wick-ed" advise.
Dennis

[milesdzyn]

We need a post for all the little tidbits of information on proper care and preventative maintenance.

Miles

[mjnims]

I usually take the cap off and just change it with another one that I carry when the water/mud gets into the cap. This requires the removal of the two hold down clamps. I am hoping that if sealing the vent holes works than I will not have to remove it everytime I get into deep water. Removing the whole adapter plate would make more sense if you were just gaining access to the top of the distributor.

Dennis you are correct, I believe it is even written in the maintainence section of the manuals to put a few drops of light oil in the distributor when servicing.

Bottom line the elelctronic ignition with civilian components is still one of the top modifications in my opinion. I have only had one coil and ignitor go bad in over 60K miles.

Come Tuesday evening I will know if sealing the adaptor and vent holes is the answer.

[mjnims]

good news after two trips to the water I had no infiltration. Hopefully sealing the holes in the distributor won't cause other problems.

Off to get some more ducks