Pics of my finished restoration of a 1979 Austrian 712M

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 9:10 am

Really nice job. Can I ask why you got rid of all the hints of it being an Austrian model and not Swiss.

Jerbearyukon · Post by **Jerbearyukon** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:02 pm

Where abouts is the farm?

How much?

Jer Bear

WIll you include the pinz? tee hee

Middlebury_Pinz · Post by **Middlebury_Pinz** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 10:13 pm

The body I purchased was a Swiss body and the turn signals and mirrors had to be switched to accomodate the existing mounting points. The headlight guards are different and had to be replaced. If you notice, the wipers swing from opposite directions to allow for the split windshield. I searched everywhere for new windshield seals and couldn't find the Austrian ones. I had the center windshield post removed and installed a new Swiss seal with a new safety wind screen. The turn signal assemblies on the rear are different as well. The junction box on the turn signal/ tail light assmeblies mounts differently. I reworked the mounting points for the gas tank so that I could reuse the 30 gallon tanks. That was important to me. The Austrian version uses the VW style ceramic fuses instead of the Swiss breakers. I have the windshield supports for when you lower the windshield and I have yet to install them, but I will. The Swiss body had no brackets welded on to accept them.

Someone asked about the rub rails. If you notice, I drilled out all of the nut serts for the rub rail and welded in 5/16" threaded bungs so that I can install a 2.5" steel rub rail and exo skeleton. The old aluminum nut serts allowed for fretting corrosion and was a real buzzard removing them from the old body. Further, I didn't think they would be a good foundation for the new exo skelton. I will post pictures and info on them if anyone is interested? They are cheap and an outstanding solution for this application. I have the winch bumper done and a 24V 12K Warn winch for it. I am rethinking the winch/ bumper because the stinker is so heavy. It does look good though.

I never thought about the blog idea, but if you think someone wold benefit, I will consider it.

Thanks again for all of the positive feedback and interest.

Best regards,

Mike

Middlebury_Pinz · Post by **Middlebury_Pinz** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 10:18 pm

Jer Bear,

My farm is located about two hours due east of Chicago in Middlebury, IN and is just off the Toll Road. If you're serious about the farm, send me an email and I will ship you all the details. And yes, If you buy my farm I will throw in the Pinz. I have had a ball taking my grandkids on rides through the trails. They are beautiful right now with just a touch of snow on them. We saw a 15 point buck the other night and my neighbors have harvested three does. We are over run right now and needed to thin them out some. Lots of coyote sign to and wild turkey.

Thanks,

Mike
mrhude@aol.com

PS If you buy my farm, I will have the excuse I need to build a 712DK soft top. Please buy it!!!!

ka · Post by ka » Sat Dec 13, 2008 10:55 pm

mike - re these "bungs" you welded in. i would appreciate all data you can provide about those and what you're doing with them. i have no idea what a bung is but i'm in need of a good mcmaster-carr (or whatever) solution to my pinz's rail problem.

M Wehrman · Post by **M Wehrman** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:30 pm

On my M ,I cut a rectangular hole on the back on each corner side. I then marked,drilled and tapped holes to accept 5/16 bolts on a piece of 1/4" x2" steel flat stock . It goes along the whole length of the inside of the rub rail channel to match the locations where the rivnuts were. Very stout mounting location for about anything. Of course I welded the holes in the rear shut and repainted.
Mark

ka · Post by ka » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:32 pm

mark - sounds very interesting and after reading that 3 times i just do not get it. i have a pile of pix of your truck(s), tho... maybe i have a pic of it. i'll go see now....

krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:47 pm

I think I have this pictured..the bar with the threaded holes is inside, on the backside of the place where the rivnuts were. I was not aware that it was hollow all the way from back to front.
I was thinking of using that space to pass a wire for side lights at one time but did not want to put a hole in it, if it would not go all the way.

thanks

ka · Post by ka » Sun Dec 14, 2008 4:36 pm

ah! could you send that pic to me?

ka · Post by ka » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:29 pm

oh wait - you mean you have a MENTAL picture. hmf. oh well.

krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:30 pm

That's rich...In my mind;-) ...I imagine it.

M Wehrman · Post by **M Wehrman** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:44 pm

It's hollow all the way to the front and full of that cosmoline type stuff.I really should take more pictures but my ADD only allows me one thought at a time!

To clarify,the bar runs the entire length of the side and was inserted from the back.

Mark

pinzdriver · Post by **pinzdriver** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:02 pm

Mark i'm in the process of doing the same thing right now i'll get some pics for others to see.

Middlebury_Pinz · Post by **Middlebury_Pinz** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:27 pm

Here's how I did the side rails:

I drilled out the new/ old style rivnuts and drilled a clearance hole for the external type welded bungs below. They come in different sizes and I chose a 5/16" female thread. I skip welded them on each side. You can see the little "tits" around the perimeter to stand them away from the parent metal which allows for excellent weld penetration. The main side tubes are easily .125" thick and will carry the weight of the steel bumper rails and exo skeleton I am planning. The stand off distance will also allow water to pass between the tube and new side rail so that rust won't get started. My old body was badly rusted in this area as I believe water was trapped in between the wood and body tube. I wanted something more substantial than a 6mm bolt being held by an aluminum rivnut and I think this is an elegant and inexpensive solution. These bungs are about .35 cents each and I ordered them in a bulk of 100.

You can see above the exteranl bungs I used on the body side rails are on the left and the ones I used to mount the winch cover and bumper wings to my new bumper is on the right. The ones on the right are designed to go below a hole and the ones on the left are designed to go on top. Hopefully that makes sense in the picture below of the inside bungs.

This is the winch bumper I designed for my pinz. My intent is develop replaceable bumper wings for each side that will also allow the front roll bar hoop to be mounted.

This baby is really heavy and I am second guessing myself about it's weight.

I purchased the bungs from:

Buckeye Fasteners Inc.
(216) 267-2240

http://www.buckeyefasteners.com/

They are a great place to deal with and shipped my order the next day.

Hopefully I am not boring you with to much detail and to many pictures??

Mike

ka · Post by ka » Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:32 pm

aha! weldnuts and threaded inserts! i guess they really are similar to a bung - i designed c-130 fire retardant system with supply tanks with bungs in them for the openings. and you created a weldplate. that should be pretty bomber. nope, i love getting turned onto anyone's designs. pix are awesome. never bored. so thx for the data!!!!!