THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

The stock heat exchanger works quite well if the hoses going to the cab are wrapped with insulation. Much of the heat is lost from the exchanger to the cab through the paper hoses.

I use my WeBasto (fueled from the petrol tank) on the coldest Colorado days till the engine reaches operating temps and then shutting off the WeBasto I use the stock vents to keep the cab warm (approx 65 deg)
while I travel. This is on the cold 20 deg days here. The insulation on the hoses is also wrapped with foil to retain the heat.

Often I will have to open the fresh air vent or a window if the cab gets too warm. I also use the blackout curtain in the winter to retain the heat in the cab. No one sits in the rear anyway.

Apparently, many folks want the additional heat of an aux heater and I understand that, but I find the stock exchanger works well for me, even in the CO winters.
I also use a cover on the grille intake to heat the engine a bit faster on the runs around town as the engine will not get to comfortable temps on drives with stop and go traffic of less than 25 miles.

There is enough air traveling around the engine (in the winter) from the bottom of the vehicle and it also reduces the amount of white foam that appears on the oil cap. If foam is showing on the
cap, it is also apparent in the valve covers, as I have discovered while adjusting the valves while the engine is cold.

Tell me more about the white foam. When I noticed it, I kinda freaked, but didn't know exactly what it was. My "guy" told me it was common when getting a vehicle back in shape if it has been sitting a long time. He suggested it would go away after the next oil change. Is this common?

I was told it is from condensation in the oil that has not been able to dissipate/evaporate since the oil has not gotten hot enough.
Noticed it in WA as it is very moist there.

An oil change will only clear the condition up until more moisture collects in the oil. It is more likely caused by short trips than the truck sitting.
The Pinzgauer motors draw moisture in from many sources in rainy or humid conditions, the distributer vent being just one of them. As mentioned the Pinzgauer motor often never reaches sufficient temperatures on short trips to “cook” off this moisture that accumulates in the oil.

This is also true of moisture in the exhaust system. Ever follow a car in the morning and see water coming from the tail pipe? If a vehicle is only used for short trips of driven in weather conditions that never allow the engine to attain normal running temperature you will often see the milky froth and will also see premature rust out of mufflers.

It used to be very common to see BMW air cooled motorcycles with rusted out exhaust systems, made it easy to identify the bikes that mainly saw short city trips verses the bikes that were primary used for longer freeway trips. Air cooled motors often never reach proper running temperature due to their cooling design. Liquid cooled motors are able to reach proper operating temperatures much faster by bypassing the radiator. The Pinzgauer will bypass the oil cooler at low temperatures however on short trips this often will not make a significant difference. Putting the air intake system in cold weather mode and or partially blocking the air intake at the front of the truck may help in continuously very cold weather.