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Again check that resistor, it looks to me something is cutting the current to the engine when it gets hot. I will try to by-pass today, maybe you should try that too. I read quite a few treads where it was the problem.....

I will let you know if it helps on mine.

Denis

Denis are you talking about the ballast resistor?? I suppose it could be bypassed but doing this will supply full battery power to the ignition at all times and prematurely burn out the coil and the pertronix unit if I remember right. I tested my ballast resister by checking voltages. When cranking the ignition recieves full voltage and then kicks down to 17- 21volts after it starts which is per spec.

No, do not by-pass the ballast resistor but check it as to what resistance it gets. If the resistance is too great it will make heat up and maybe cut the currrent. What I was referring to by-pass was the rev limiter (4500 rpm).

I did mine this morning but it didn't fix my problem.

I took the top of the carburators and they good level of gaz in them and still it is back firing in them at over than 3000 rpm. Next thing to do is remove and rebuild.....Will see what happen.................

Denis

B4 rebuilding carbs you may try just removing and cleaning your jets.

That's a good idea I will try it before I touch the carbs.

Thanks

Denis

If the rotor base is not shaved down the the Pertronix magnet ring holds the rotor up too high; this can wear out the carbon button at the top of the dizzy cap. Carbon dust is one hellava conductor; you might have carbon tracks inside the cap. Make sure the inside of the cap is spotless before you go too much further (hey, do the simple and quick things first!).

Jim, I shave down the rotor before instalation.

The cap is new also.

I checked all the simple thing first but mybe I forgot one. I pm Jim Laguardia yesterday for help and he told me to check the fuel supply line from the tank, maybe the red death in it plugging the line going to the pump.

I will check that out today, lucky for me I was on vacation this week. What a nice vacation fixing a Pinz, could not have ask for more........

Denis

Yes Jimm I cleaned the cap, teminals, and rotor thoroughly before reassembly thinking along the same lines. I checked fuel pump for output thinking maybe there is a crack in the diaphram that increases in size when hot and decreases fuel supply, however have hit a dead end. I was tempted to buy a new pertronix, coil, cap, rotor, wires, fuel pump and carb rebuild kit and just throw parts at it until it is repaired but dont want to spend all this time and money replacing parts that may or may not resolve the issue. I will be on vacation next week and will devote as much time as is necessary to check every aspect of the ignition system until I find and isolate the culprit.....any member suggestions...similar experiences...thoughts..etc...will be appreciated.

Replace the condensor. I've had one fail in the past, and it was new. When one fails you will get intermittant power, or a high RPM misfire. Symptoms point to a fuel problem, but it's electrical.

Doesn't the Pertronix eliminate the condenser?

I do not see a condensor mounted in the distributor and thought this was the purpose of the pertronix...to eliminate all mechanical devices and replace with a solid state device to replace points and condensor...if I am wrong here someone please correct us..however I see only the pertronix unit installed on the distributor plate.

Well guys all is fine finally.

I checked the fuel tank and the fuel system again like Jim Laguardia told me but there was nothing special in the tank. There was some dirt in it but nothing unusual and thank God no red death. Anyway now I'm sure this side of the fuel system is clean.

I rebuilt the carbs and they were not that dirty. After the rebuilding I checked the camshaft timing by making sure that the rotor was on the first cylinder when the piston was at TDC at top compression. All was fine.

Tune the carbs and the ignition at 7 degrees at 800 rpm. Both carbs are at 10 on the scale on the balancing gauge.

Now everything is back to normal, the Pinz start as good as ever and I have good power at all rpm.

One thing I did was to check if I was taking air in by the Eberspacher fuel system, remember it is a K. I never had problem with it but I haven't used it in a long time and maybe there was no fuel in that side of the fuel supply. So I start it to make sure the fuel line was fill and not leaking anywhere. The Eberspacher pump a little at the begining but after the first priming it was as usual.

I don't know for sure but the back firing in the carbs is due to low fuel supply to the cabs. Now by cleaning them I'm sure that the fuel is going to the cylinder properly. I will rebuild all the fuel system to the Eberspacher when I get the 5mm hose and that won't be a possible source of problem anymore. Jim told me to make sure that I use 7mm and 5 mm hose for the system and not 1/4'' and 5/16'' hose so I will follow what the professional says.

Thanks for all the suggestions and the help.

It sure helped me with all my thinkering on how to fix it.

Pinzgauer Pete if you have any question next week when you do the same as I did this week it will be a pleasure to help you as much as I can. I like to see people happy with their Pinz as much as I do.

Now back to another trip.

Denis

So glad to hear you got the problem licked and over with what vendor did you use for the carb rebuild kits? How long did it take to rebuild your carbs?

Most of my tune up stuff comes from Pinzgauer Canada (Karl Portmann) but I support greatly SAV and Scott Expedition Import.

SAV as a carb rebuild kit on for sale right now but it is for the big adjusting screws. It is pretty complete. If you have done the carbs in a long time I suggest buying 2 accelerator pumps at the same times.

Rebuild of the carbs is pretty simple. Just make sure that you take all the jets apart from the carb to clean all passage way very good and remember where everything goes. Do one carb at the time so you have a template just in case you forget how to put it back together. I clean the carb with a good carb cleaner spray and a lot of compressed air. When you reassemble them make sure not to tight the jets to much so they don't deform. On the base screws I put on some blue Look Tight because sometimes they loose up. Check the shop manual for the basic setup and your good to go.

Denis

Denis,just a side note. When I had my K it would starve on occasions,then clear up. one day didn't get 25ft and died,no fuel. The point I am getting to is in this case the heaters fuel pump was sucking air,and as it it tee'd into the fuel line it allowed air to get sucked in. Maybe It was just a fluke,just FYI for the future.
Mark