THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Hard to see from the first pic, but it looks as if there is NO lock piece under the bolt heads. If true, I'd assume PO had upgraded to LocTite on the bolts.

See no. 11 here: http://www.pinzgauer.com/parts.php?cat= ... view=04-10

It is not used in the upgrade.

michaelh712 wrote:Berger,
Purchase an inexpensive digital thermometer with a lazer sight (like from Harbour Freight here in the states). Its an invaluable tool as has been suggested in several boards. After driving, check the temp of each hub. If there is a big imbalance, the highest temp may be adjusted too tight or the very lowest one too loose. In addition,d checking the head temps or exhaust headers can identify which cylinder may not be producing.

Thx!

One item I have been thinking of getting for a while.

undysworld wrote:Hard to see from the first pic, but it looks as if there is NO lock piece under the bolt heads. If true, I'd assume PO had upgraded to LocTite on the bolts.

See no. 11 here: http://www.pinzgauer.com/parts.php?cat= ... view=04-10

It is not used in the upgrade.

Excellent!

Definitely no lock washers.

Took the opposite drive off and I am happy to say all looks well here too.
Since I had a slight leak in both hubs,I am debating on doing the seals. I am confused about one thing. Jurgen's web page on the subject mentioned not to press out the hub because you might break the backing plate. In the EI video, Scott presses it out. What is the best way to go?


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IIRC, I used a puller for both the gear and the drive flange. This is the puller I got from Harbor Trash (Sorry Vince ) but I had to modify the ends of the arms to fit into the notch in the gear. Then I made up a frame to mount the puller section onto the bolt holes in the brake backing plate, and was able to push it straight out. The frame is only 1x1 tube stock with some angle channel. Note that the shaft is slightly offset from the middle 4 bolt holes and center the drive hole accordingly on the 1x1. If you need pics, let me know.

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-g ... 30305.html

Thanks to Paul's direction, I picked up a two-leg puller from Princess Auto....Canadian version of your Harbour Freight. I had to grind down the feet somewhat, but the puller pulled the gear off without any issues. One benefit of buying from China is you know their bolts are Metric!! I used the bed liner on my pickup's tailgate to hold the lugs in place while I removed the bolts.
I noticed that the socket bolts were 8.8, so I will replace them with 10.9.
Pulling the gear didn't take that much effort...
I did notice marks on the back plate....are these normal??



I am pretty certain this same puller, with the right metric bolts, can pull the back plate off. I will get those tomorrow.


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Good pics Derek. That's about what my modified puller legs look like too. Well done! For a cheap puller, this really works quite well.

undysworld wrote:Good pics Derek. That's about what my modified puller legs look like too. Well done! For a cheap puller, this really works quite well.

Thanks.

I think I hijacked my own thread, so I am going to compile a seal fix "how to." There aren't any decent pics out there anymore of the whole procedure and the steps leave a lot to be desired. Scott's video is good, but a little fast and the delayed audio is weird!!


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berger wrote: I think I hijacked my own thread, so I am going to compile a seal fix "how to." There aren't any decent pics out there anymore of the whole procedure and the steps leave a lot to be desired. Scott's video is good, but a little fast and the delayed audio is weird!!

Thanks for taking the time to document and take pics of your work. Both for this and the stuff you've done in the past. Very helpful.

DJW....My pleasure!

I picked up some M10x130x1.25 bolts and nuts today. I had it in my head that the holes in the back plate were threaded!! DOH!

Anyway, they worked well and the back ate pulled off. I only needed grip strength to pull it off.

(Pics from my iPhone)
Looks like I have the older 60mm spacer ring seal on the PS (haven't pulled the DS side yet). I am not sure about the bluey oil...mine is yellow...
In Scott's video, I see him using a chisel to remove the ring....mine was not tight to the base of the shaft and I pulled it off with my fingers. Could this explain the leak? The o-ring looked fine.



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I have the newer 55mm rings, SKF flange seal and o-ring from SAV ( had them for some time now) ready to go, but now I need to scrounge up some good snap ring pliers.
I noticed some rusty marks on the spacer rings...is this okay? They have been in there sealed packaging wrapped in waxy paper until now...
Anyway, once I get the snap ring off, I will be able to get at the bearing and ultimately the flange seal.


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Hey Berger, I'm sure you're anxious to get back up & running, but have you given any thought to finding alternative seals that would allow you to use synthetic gear oil in the hubs. Has anyone else? I'm thinking thats the direction I'd be going if I'm faced with hub disassembly.

I found it interesting that 3 of your 5 retainer bolts were allen socket head vs hex head. When I ordered them from SAV recently for a repair/upgrade it showed all 5 were hex head and that's what I got. I wonder why a previous owner/mechanic would have used socket head - any thoughts?

Just a guess. People use what they have on hand, rather than take time to order or fetch the proper part.
Often the client does not know or care as long as it works when done by a shop.

Stekay wrote:Hey Berger, I'm sure you're anxious to get back up & running, but have you given any thought to finding alternative seals that would allow you to use synthetic gear oil in the hubs. Has anyone else? I'm thinking thats the direction I'd be going if I'm faced with hub disassembly.

I didn't know the seal would dictate what kind of oil I could use..... :?: I did read someone mention in an earlier post not to use KOK seals. The ones SAV sent are SKF.

I am happy to stay with dino oil, just because I buy it by the barrell and use it everywhere. Easier than one brand/type here, and one in another.