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I just installed mine yesterday.

Took about 6-8 hours total, but I did have other missing electrical components that needed wiring.

Engine ran for the first time in my possession, but now I need to fix the non-pumping fuel pump and the leaky carbs.

Installation was very easy mechanically, moderate thinking required for the electrical side.

All components were very well packaged and made it half way around the world without issue.

And are you happy with the performance?

ako wrote:I just installed mine yesterday.

Took about 6-8 hours total, but I did have other missing electrical components that needed wiring.

Engine ran for the first time in my possession, but now I need to fix the non-pumping fuel pump and the leaky carbs.

Installation was very easy mechanically, moderate thinking required for the electrical side.

All components were very well packaged and made it half way around the world without issue.

Unfortunately I do not have a base line to compare to.

And I discovered my fuel pump is not working and the front carb is leaking.

One day I will get there

The web site says out of stock, but I have 1 in stock after a buyer changed his mind. PM me for PayPal info if interested.

Installed mine Sunday was nice and straight forward. I had just put some balanced and tuned carbs on the day before and it runs good need to get it registered on the truck to give it some real world testing.

If one were to install fuel injection at a later date, how would this system typically integrate with it? Can you extrapolate the crank position (without advance) from this sensor?

I think you would be better off with a crank mounted sensor on the front pulley - I am pretty sure that is how most of the FI systems have been done. It would be more accurate and would allow adjustment of the spark advance separately from the FI system.

You might check with Jim about his system...

What kind of problems have people seen when using a 24-12v converter as opposed to the mid-battery pickup? The manual states only that there were problems but it would be nice to know what they are for troubleshooting purposes.

I've noticed many more carb backfires when cold since I added the voltage converter.

I have tried 3 different 24-12v converters, and only one worked at all, and it was the most expensive. I asked an electrical engineer as to why this is so, and he said the output of the cheaper converters isn't smooth enough to run the computer in the module. The output is 'choppy', which it is equivalent to turning the device on and off hundreds of times per second. It simply won't work as designed without a constant voltage power source, which the battery delivers quite well. As for tapping between two batteries in series, the current draw is so low that the life of either battery is not affected. I wish a 24 volt module was available at a reasonable cost, but it isn't.

bikmakr- the module puts out a signal to run a tach. Other than that, the PinzSSI would run independent of a fuel injection system. There is no way to make the two systems communicate, unless someone came up with a driver.

A lot of the cheap 24-12 converters don't have much output capacitance to handle high peak currents - which is probably the problem.

Another option instead of using a 24-12 converter is a battery balancing device which allows 12vdc loads to be ran off the lower battery while keeping the two equal. Several different brands are available - the one I've had the most experience with was called "solar converters" but its been a while. I know a company called Vanner also made a large one as well.

A balancing device also should reduce problems with imbalance as the batteries age.

Or http://www.powerstream.com/DCC-2412.htm and a 12v battery.

will a resistor not work? i have several $10 24 to 12v convertors which are nothing more than resistor packs. nothing switching about them

edzz wrote:Or http://www.powerstream.com/DCC-2412.htm and a 12v battery.

thats cool!

Audio, you are right, a resistor should work. Should...
As for cheap convertors, one that I tried read good voltage at no load but the Pinz would not start. The next convertor would start the Pinz, but the engine seemed to hit on 3 cylinders and backfired at lot. The expensive unit would work (ServiceMate SM2412-10), but I was afraid of something going wrong later on due to heat and/or vibration, so I went back to original wiring set-up and it has run perfectly ever since. Conclusion and my opinion- a convertor is not worth the expense, and might be a potential problem eventually. The battery imbalance issue is insignificant due to the small amp draw.

Thanks for the tips everyone. I think battery balancer is the way I might go. It does worry me a little to make my pinz too gadgety, but on the other hand I sure do love to make my pinz gadgety!

Regarding the batteries, I respectfully disagree. 700mA is pretty low but the current draw is not the driving factor. What is important when charging a battery is voltage. The actual voltage required will be different depending on which manufacturer you ask, due to slightly different chemistry. For example, optima recommends 13.65-15.0 volts for charging. NorthStar recommends at least 13.74v. If the voltage is less than that the battery will never charge. If it is too low (13.2v or less) it will slowly discharge the lower battery while you are driving and at the same time the other battery will boil.

Measure your battery voltage with the engine above idle and after a long drive. I'm going to guess that the lower battery will be at 13.1v and the upper will be 14.9v. Then call the manufacturer of your battery and ask what the lowest and highest recommended charging voltages are. I'm usually mistaken, but I don't think this is one of those time.

You're going to need to do something different. Use a converter, or equalizer, or separate 12v battery with a charger. Or just water, charge independently, equalize, and rotate your batteries every few months of driving.