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After you set the valves, try doing a leak-down test. That may help isolate the problem if there still is one.

Following the advice of the forum readers, I adjusted the valves hoping that it was just that and not blown valves... ran to get a compression gauge and....
150 - 145 - 150 - 150 !!! Problem solved!! Right? I start the engine and it pops and backfires and puffs and wont idle.

Well... time for the very last check. Remove the carbs, remove the tin tunnel and...


If this doesn't solve all my problems, I am converting back to propane. Ran 10 years with no issues, even with the valves messed up...

That is one ugly split! Usually that hose has an embedded spiral steel wire in it so even more surprising to see that.

After fixing the hose, I started the engine. Now it idles ok, with the mixture screws at about 2 turns out, as expected. I did not have a lot of time to play with the settings as I had to go. I noticed it takes a time for the rpms to drop down to idle. Will check for leaks with some ether tomorrow.
JC

I don't think you want to go spraying ether on it. Go with carb cleaner or even WD40. Ether is too explosive, I think.

I don't know. Have you used ether lately? I used to mount semi tires with it. Now when I use it , it just catches fire. It doesn't ignite like it used to. Probably changed the formula. Had to buy a air tank to seat the bead. I got tired of just setting tire on fire.

I used starting fluid.. apparently it is a 50% ether mixture. They probably made it safer to handle. Anyway, could not find any leaks by spraying the base of the carburetors... I will start a new thread since I feel it has not much to do with Ignition Coil and Idling....