THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I have just one kit left, but more are in the making. They should be available within 3 weeks.

Finally got mine installed. Wished I had done it sooner. Same solid runner it was but with more pep and I can now cruise the same speed with less pedal.
It has always been able to got faster than 100KMph(center of vdo) but yesterday evening I accidentally pegged it back at 0 before backing down.(still had pedal to go).
I am still running a bit rich so I need to lean out the mix or down size my jets(former CO. truck) but idles like a dream, responds quickly, and was simple to install.

Notes for others when installing.
- I ran my wires from the sender to the coil pack over the fan cowl(where stock spark plug wires went) to avoid abrasion on the fan belt.
- I attached my coil pack mounting plate after installing the angle bracket First. (easier to see the bolt)
- I also ran the supplied bolt through the engine compartment side, out, so that the nut was behind the Front Spring cup.
- I used petroleum jelly on the rubber boots for the coil and spark plugs to keep them from sticking and tearing.
- The third mounting hole on the coil pack is left open to enable the plate to be mounted flat on the ledge.
- Lastly, I removed the distributor vacuum line and capped it with a vacuum cap.

I will report back in a month after I run the truck for a while to let you know if i have any problems with the mounting points or wiring.

Andre wrote:I am still running a bit rich so I need to lean out the mix or down size my jets(former CO. truck)

If your truck had been jetted for high altitude would it not already be jetted lean if the truck is now at a lower altitude? The thinner the air the less fuel is needed.

Yep. You are correct. Perhaps that made the truck undesirable to the former owner. It runs like a stripped a$$ed ape but still has allot of fumes coming into the truck. Leaning it out is what it needs..

My first truck was leaned out just enough that I needed to use the starter knob to keep the engine running when in Big Bear. But it idled and ran great at 2500ft to sea level. Not sure why that worked that way but it did.

Looks like I will be saving up now...

Got mine installed..

I ran the wires up over the engine as well. I did not use the bracket (I never installed it but seemed like the setup would not have been very sturdy with just one bolt) as I did not need the relay since I already had a switched 12v source. I mounted the coil pack directly to the frame in basically the same location as it would have been on the bracket.

I have never looked into how to measure and figure out how far BTDC to time it so I just put it about 1/2" or so for now and she fired right up and purred.. I just need to set the timing correct and then I can give it a road test... hopefully tomorrow..

After fighting a nasty cold and the frigid temps last week I finally got mine installed over the weekend and I'm very happy with it.

I did a lot of pre-planning since I wasn't able to get right at it and the install went very smoothly. I also ran the main harness over the top of the front tin where the spark plug wires used to run. This is purely a personal choice as it fits either way.
I had the warm air regulator installed on my air cleaner so instead of plugging the vacuum line I just removed the previously installed "T" fitting and connected the regulator directly after removing the distributor line.
I mounted the coil pack/relay as directed but added another ss screw (red arrow) into the frame for a more secure mounting. To determine timing I divided the circumference of the pulley (approx. 508mm) by 360 degrees. The result was 1.41mm per degree of rotation. I set the timing pointer at 10mm (3/16") BTDC which is about 7 degrees BTDC if I'm correct. In any event the engine started right up and purrs like never before. I have the advance switch set at 2. It's still too cold for a long drive but it ran great on a 5 mile trip. Haven't tried any hills or off-road yet but will report back when I do.

Edit: Forgot to mention - my previously installed VDO tach worked fine when connected to the signal lead from the new ignition. No changes needed.

I have mine set at 7/16" BTDC currently and it runs good but seems to have a sputter in the lower RPM (below 2000 or so). Above 2000 RPM the thing takes off.. so I might need to play with my timing some more. I need to do other maintenance items like my carbs/valves as well which may solve that issue.

Where you put the extra screw is where I mounted the coil pack with two threaded holes.

I was enlightened by compunerdy that my timing may be to retarded. So I advanced it to 7/16 befor top dead center and guess what?
Idled a bit higher, readjusted my carbs to bring back down and Wellah! I can tach out the motor and let it drop right back to idle without so much as a sputter.

And now I don't have any more gas fume smell in the truck. I can't believe how much better my "great running" truck runs now. HOME RUN Rick!!

Lastly, Wet weather no longer an issue. I have passed on the word to another mid west owner who had the same problems I was having. He'll be contacting you soon.

LOL.. I enlightened you only because you confused me..

I am still having issues with mine.. After getting it running pretty decent I let it sit for a few days and when I went to run it again it was running like crap, sputtering, backfiring, etc.. I got it to the shop and started doing some tests and one of them was the check for clicking solenoids and one was not plugged in. So I figured that must have been the problem and I plugged it in but no luck..same issues.. I must have knocked the wire loose taking off the engine cover. The truck had been running great for months and when the cold weather hit it started running like it is now so I figured it was condensation in the cap or normal tune up stuff so I decided to just park it until I got the pinzi SSI instead of wasting money on wires,plugs, etc that I planned to replace with the kit anyways. Evidently that was not the case since I am still having issues. Checked the valves yesterday and they only needed very minimal adjusting. Compression tester will be here today and I also have a carb sync on the way. I will just keep ruling stuff out until I find the issue. This stuff all needed to be done/checked anyways..

Sounds like carbs. Water is heavier than gas and if you filled up after a good rain, the Fuel at the Gas station may have had high water contamination. The water gets picked up first and sits in the bowl of the carbs. once it's there, you can't get it to run right.

Open the cover screw for the float level check tool and see if you get any water out of it. Then you know the next step.

Spent some time this last week with a Porsche tuner. On their NDIX equipped Porsche motors they are having to run considerably higher advance as a result of the higher ethanol content. He also mentioned that when people are using fuel additives they have to account for those in their tuning.

We were tuning a 712M with a stock points ignition and shielded plugs and wires. When all was said and done advance was set to 14 degrees advanced. The truck ran so much better than it's stock settings.

We are on CA Winter Blend fuel.

Cheers,

Scott

I found one of my injection tubes was not letting out any gas so I will get that cleaned out and go from there..

compunerdy wrote:I found one of my injection tubes was not letting out any gas so I will get that cleaned out and go from there..

How did you determine that?

When I pumped the gas nothing came out.. Fixed it and still have issues. I think the next step is carb rebuild..