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The previous owner had done some electrical butchery and I’ve been cleaning it up. One of the two remaining issues is the connector behind the passenger seat. It had a non original wire hanging out so I thought I’d get in and cut it out.

This got me to thinking of a more elegant way to connect my ARB compressor. I was warned about the solenoid not always opening and a parasitic drain that would result. Wouldn’t it be great to just disconnect the compressor when it’s not needed? Hey! There’s a perfect connector behind the passenger seat and it looks like it could handle the current. A spare plug was included with the truck.

So I tested it with the engine running and only got millivolts. Is there a switch for it? Admittedly, I have not looked at the schematic yet. Any ideas?

Also, how do I get the pins out for soldering?

In case you don't have it, here's the schematic <attached>
And here's my circuit table: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... drive_link

PS: I use this connector to power my 12V sub-system, so it should normally work fine, and I don't recall any switches to enable it. I believe it would have been for gear such as radios.

It's a "Hot" circuit, no switches or fuses. These were used for the radio sets which were fuse protected.
Would be a good idea to make sure anything you add to this circuit is self-protected.

How do I get the pins out?
I don’t want to damage it. I imagine they’re expensive

Pins in an Amphenol connector are generally removed with a special extraction tool, which is a thin metal hollow cylinder that slides over the pin to release the barbs on the sides. That being said, I've never tried to remove these pins. Never had a need.

Does that mean you soldered to the pins while in the connector body or you’ve never had to solder to the pins at all?

Ok. Got the pins out.
Truck socket:
There’s an internal snap ring. Once I got that out, the plastic center that houses the pins slid right out.
Plug that connects to truck socket:
There’s pins are pressed into a rubber center. There’s no tabs to be pressed in. The pins have a recessed ring that the rubber holds on to. I have a tiny nut driver that I put on the end of the pin and pushed. Getting them back in won’t be fun.

Now I just need to check the connection at the starter motor and I should good.