Page 1 of 2
Flasher diagnosis
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 8:55 pm
by Buzz
My truck was rewired for halogen headlights by the prior owner. So I have some motorcycle globes for the headlights and turn signals in the top of the yellow marker lights. There is resister lead wired into the side terminal on the blinker socket in the same place as the lead that comes in from the flasher unit. The lead on the opposite side of the resister is grounded to the bottom bolt of the signal unit. I have no idea what the resisters are for.
The turn signal on the left front side has stopped flashing. The left rear signal works as does the everything on the right side.
Yes, I have changed the bulb. When I put a voltmeter on the socket I get a very weak bounce on the dial as the flasher cycles. Could it be a flasher unit problem? Could it be a resister? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the input. - Buzz
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:04 pm
by Jim LaGuardia
Try turning the 4way lights on and off a few times. Sometimes the contacts get corroded. But if signal is weak, check and verify good ground.
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:32 pm
by goudacheese
I had a similar problem and I solved it by running a new ground wire which I tapped from the ground wire going to the headlight. The original body ground was the problem. While troubleshooting I rewired the front turn signal assembly so the top globe is the turn signal and the bottom globe is the parking light. I got the parking light wire from the headlight.
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:32 pm
by M Wehrman
Behold the power of Cheese!
I did the same with my Pinz,just took power from park lights circuit so the h-lights did not have to be on.
Nice to see you posting again, Mark
Flasher Diagnosis
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:22 pm
by Buzz
The ground problem makes sense. I'll take another run at this tomorrow. Anyone got any idea what those resisters are for? - Buzz
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 11:17 pm
by goudacheese
Hey Mark, I finally got my hands on 24V 1156 White LED bulbs and I just got a couple of these 24v LED dome light.

Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:21 am
by Lightningpinz
The original Hella flasher operated by thermal (heat) action. That heat was dependant on the load seen by the front flashers. Usually if a front bulb went, the flasher rate slowed down to almost nothing. We had a customer re wire his turn signals so 1 bulb was a flasher and the other was a park light. His flash rate went to 1 flash every 10 seconds or langer. So, I assume the resistors were to drop the resistance seen by the flasher can which would raise the thermal load and there fore the flash rate. I suggest you remove the resistors and see if the flash rate drops. If it does, then just change the flasher to a new electronic unit.(dependable and consistant)
Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 11:17 pm
by Ken A
[quote="goudacheese"]Hey Mark, I finally got my hands on 24V 1156 White LED bulbs and I just got a couple of these 24v LED dome light.
Where did you get the 24v dome light ?
Ken
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 1:35 pm
by goudacheese
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:36 pm
by M Wehrman
Cheese man,you have been real busy with your developement! Looks good! Also,nice Avatar!
Mark
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 8:09 pm
by lindenengineering
Guys
I hate to pee on someone's parade, BUT, those Backseat Heat units featured in your attachment Gouda Cheese Man have been known to go up in flames.
One unit, set the canopy on fire of one Pinz owner and suffered some nasty burns to his hands. A 'n other who occasionally contributes to this board also had the scare of his life when smoke started to waft up in the cab of his Pinz. Fortunately for him he cut the power before it totally burned into a molten mass.
The last time I spoke to the manufacturers they were withdrawing the unit from their list of available stuff. Is this old stock? Or have they re-issued it now that memories have faded?
The aircraft unit shown in creme was once installed in Evan Hillman's truck by the previous owners. It was at least safe but the current consumption killed the alternator on frequent occasions. The, then owner, once stated that with all those alternator repairs he had done to support that heater "I could have had an Espar"! (that's when we used to install that unit by the way)
This is just a precautionary post, things are not what they always are supposed to be!!
Caveat Emptor is the right expressionb here.
Dennis
SO, If you want to stay warm & safe, buy a Webasto!
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 8:46 pm
by EvanH
Dennis,
OOOps no customer bashing now!
I was not aware of the history of the heater in my truck causing problems to the charging system. The truck did come with a very thick wad of repair receipts, though!
Ignoring the electrical problems, the heater was just plain useless. You can't draw enough wattage from the Pinz charging system to heat anything larger than a hamster cage. In other words, based on my observation, I would suggest that nobody bother trying to heat the Pinz with any sort of electric heater, safe or not.
The prior owners were very nice people, I really enjoyed visiting with them. But they were totally under qualified to own a Pinzgauer. I'm not even sure they had the mechanical skills to check the oil. As I have rebuilt the truck over the years, I often think of what a horrifically difficult experience this truck must have been for them.
-Evan
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:48 pm
by goudacheese
I had a 24 volt 30 amp heater made for me with an 8' remote switch. I was surprised when the unit arrived as it is small enough to fit in my hand and puts out enough hot air as a hair dryer.
I bought some nice sport seats but I can't put them back far enough (I am 6'3") as the drivers seat keeps hitting the heater. So I am debating if I should remove the heater so I can set the sport seats further back and all the electronics behind the seat or keep it or upgrade to a new Eberspacher!
Does anyone know if the Eberspacher is slimmer?
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:44 pm
by goudacheese
M Wehrman wrote:Cheese man,you have been real busy with your developement! Looks good! Also,nice Avatar!
Mark
Thanks, did you notice the side rails?
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:50 pm
by lindenengineering
The Espar 1B1LC and the Webasto Airtop 2000 are just about the same size. Their position behind the seat is limited by the rear cab panel seam, the battery isolator switch, and the sub structure under the floor which dictates how the air inlet and exhaust pipes terminate at the heater unit.
My own Pinz has the 1B1LC but I do have a customer's unit with the Webasto 2000. I prefer the Webasto due to the cable link for instant lap top diagnosis of faults. I can give you some dimensions on the seat to heater clearance if you like and you can take it from there.
As for Evan's post. Yes Evan you are absolutely right those electric heaters don't work too well. As bad as Lucas electrics in a Hillman perhaps!!!
Happy new year mate.
Dennis