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When it warms up abd gets over freezing here (which it hasn't for about a month now) I would like to paint my soft top black. Has anyone had any luck with any particular products?

Thanks

We use a product at work to paint over vinyl called SEM. It has been the only thing that we have found that will hold up to the vinyl moving without cracking. It is made for the auto industry and they have many other products for working on plastics and rubbers. The web site is www.sem.ws
I have no affiliation with them other than using their products. I am probably going to paint my canvas Tan in the spring and this is what I will be using. Good Luck,
Wayne

Thanks for the info Wayne. Found a supplier in Salt Lake City. Its that same shop that I got my paint from to paint the Pinz. I will give them a call tomorrow. Have any idea on price? I wounder how much would be needed for a 712 top?

SEM has a lot of products Wayne! Which coating was it specifically?

I just talked to Sherwin Williams who carries auto paint and SEM. The stuff they offered was $41 for a qt and $118 for a gallon. I wounder how much a 712 top would take? All three pieces (Back, Front, Divider) both sides.... They said before you apply it you need to wash with warm soap and water, clean with a prep solvent that they had, sand with 320 or 400 and then clean with the solvent again.

Another option is this site - http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/sealcoat.aspx where they have SEM in spray cans. I have a sprayer so I probibly will get the qt or gallons depending how much it will cover.

I just talked with TCP Global and they said that it SEM sprays very transparent so most likely I will need a few coats.

We use SEM products as well at work great stuff. Most frequently use the spray can urethane bumper paints they dry fast look great adhere to plastics well

Sorry for the late response but it has been a little crazy here this week. The product the we have used for applications like this was the "Color Coat" line. It is available in many colors in spray cans and 4-5 times as many in quarts. It is important to properly clean and sand the top first for adheasion. I would not think that you would need more than 1-2 quarts to do a 712 top but remember that darker colors cover much better. The yellow took at least 6 coats to cover white. I am planning on using 4-5 coats when I go to desert tan over the factory green.

I guess I can reply fast. I am sitting in a MBA economics class. What a blast.

Are you laying more coats for durability or looks. And are you going glossy or semi gloss?

Thanks for the clarification Wayne!
Appreciate it...
Bruce

For those of you who have painted their tops, what has been the best method? Hanging the top so it is suspended or laying it on the ground? And did you cut off all the hardware and add new cord after? I can see painting around the cord...Any suggestions?

When I paint mine, I plan to paint the outside with the top still on the truck. I am planning on replacing the rubber cord at the same time. I will mask off the areas that I dont want to get paint on (cab, windows, ect.). I plan on using the satin clear over the gloss paint. It should dull the finish to what I am going for. The flat does not have enough of the UV protectant for the Florida sun. The reason for the large amont of coats of paint is for so that there will be a complete color blend. Some colors (lighter) will simply not give an even color without applying more coats. Light coats seem to work much better than heavy with this product.

I've noticed that my top appears to have almost no vinyl left in the corners, particularily the windshield corners. You guys are using actual paint to redo the tops? Will the paint work like the vinyl or is there another product you need to add before paint that will "rubberise" the top again?
Thanks

Andy

Andy, The paint will not provide much if any repair to a bad top. When you say that the vinyl is gone do you mean the fabric is torn or is the rubber coating worn off the canvas? It could be repaired using a rubber brushed over the canvas but I am not sure how long that would last. Do NOT use silicone. It will seal but it will not accept paint. Try a 2 part urethane for mold making or for building skins. I can provide you with sources if you wish. Send me a PM and I will be glad to send you the info. If you go this route, post your results here so we all can benifit.

Good Luck,
Wayne

Wayne, no the top is not torn. It is just weathered at the corners. It looks almost bleached out, I suspect from uv. My thought was to touch those areas up with something that would at least approximate the look and feel of the rest of the top. At this point color coordination is not real high on the list. I'll try to shoot you a pm later.

this is an interesting thread...i had no idea that a product like that was even out there. i dont believe ive ever seen it discussed before on this or the yahoo board, nor have i ever contemplated such a restoration.

for those who attempt this on their tops, please report back to the group re its effectiveness. i, for one, would very much like to hear the outcome.

oh yeah...and being a smart @ss so and so, i just couldnt pass this quote up...

"It could be repaired using a rubber brushed over the canvas"

hey, this is a family oriented board guys! besides, pics or it didnt happen wayne/andy!!!

again, i am truely sorry...but i just couldnt pass that up! please dont take any of that seriously!