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I cleaned up my distributor and rotor after changing the plugs.
I could use a new cap and rotor. The cap looks like it has a standard cap inside the metal housing. Is this part changable?
I can't imagine paying 300+ for a cap. Am I missing something?
Swifty

Most people seem to change to civilian ignition. If you don't want to, I have several complete sets of military ignition, and there is a whole set on ebay as well I noticed yesterday.

I hava a petronix ignition installed. I would just like to purchase a rotor and cap.
Swifty

Do you still run the military cap, wires & rotor? If so, you may want to change over to a full civi setup. If you no longer have the original military cap & rotor, the replacement is a cap & rotor for an air cooled bug. You'll neet to shave down the bottom of the VW rotor about 1/4". Of course you'll need to get a new set of wires. I use MSD 8mm wires.
Scott

Just remembered an adapter is also needed to fit the VW cap on. Scott @ EI has them.

Yeah, the entire civi kit including new wires from Scott at E.I. is cheaper than just the military cap! When/if any of the military stuff fails in mine, I'll get the whole kit from him. You can get it with or without the Pertronix in case you already have it installed.

The one major flaw that I have had with the civi conversion is the water infiltration into the system. I am glad I have the pertronix but not sure about the civi cap. I have the EI kit and have trouble with hi water crossings. I have tried a variety of things to seal the cap to no avail. The civi conversion does help with some of the trouble with the way the the old point system works just wish it was more water resistant.

I have no water infiltration with the civi cap conversion. With the civi conversion the adapter covers the breather holes holes for the most part in the bottom of the distributor. Mil distributor is WAY worse for water. On civi conversion I didn't even need to think about plugging holes. The problem I had was using the wrong spark plug connectors. Had bakelite ends that required grease, now I have heavy boots that completely seal. All dry!

Put breather in transmission that is up high now. Most water intrusion is gone, except for actual passenger compartment. Here's an example of our FL fun:



That vehicle had the military setup and had to eventually have the distributor dried out. Now it's fixed but those pesky holes underneath the distributor let water in with mil setup sometimes.

I was on a duck hunt trip saturday morning and went through a puddle that was maybe 8" deep. The distributor was flooded with water. I have had the trouble so often that I now carry an extra cap, computer air and wd40 to clear the water from the distributor. We were down for maybe 15 minutes but still made it to our spot before light.
Russ,
Do you coat the distributor with silicone spray or ???
Would like to get this issue taken care of. I have been fighting it for several years now. Good thing I live in the desert.

On the distributor there are about 6 holes which look like rivet holes inside the o-ring. These go to breathers on the underside of the distributor. That is where water gets in. Plug those holes and you shouldn't get water in assuming that the cap is sealed. You still want the vacuum line connected with its restrictor as it tends to remove any little bit of moisture that does get in without drawing it up like a straw through the now plugged holes. It may also remove ionization from inside the cap too, not sure but what the heck, it doesn't leak! Here is a pic of my current setup. I used to have a boot over the entire cap but found I really didn't need it. My buddy suggested and put on the shrink wrap to keep the wires even better sealed as well as finding the actual plug wire set for stock car racing. The boot over the coil is helpful however.



Haven't had to pull mine off for a while. Now that the boot ends at the plugs are fixed I'm golden!

russ wrote:I have no water infiltration with the civi cap conversion. With the civi conversion the adapter covers the breather holes holes for the most part in the bottom of the distributor. Mil distributor is WAY worse for water. On civi conversion I didn't even need to think about plugging holes. The problem I had was using the wrong spark plug connectors. Had bakelite ends that required grease, now I have heavy boots that completely seal. All dry!

Put breather in transmission that is up high now. Most water intrusion is gone, except for actual passenger compartment. Here's an example of our FL fun:



That vehicle had the military setup and had to eventually have the distributor dried out. Now it's fixed but those pesky holes underneath the distributor let water in with mil setup sometimes.

Reminds me of the line from Risky Business, "Who's da U-Boat commanduh?"

did you silicone the cap onto the adapter? There is no seal between the cap and the adapter plate and that is where the majority of my water gets in. I have used teflon tape, silicone (which caused way too many problems), a little grease and even liquid soap. None of them would stop the water intrusion completely.
What did you plug the holes with?

RTV for holes and to seal cap into the adapter. Adapter to distributor also gets RTV. Once it is properly sealed you won't get it off with out potentially breaking the cap. Fortunately the caps are very cheap so just carry a spare. As I said, I haven't had to open mine in quite a while, probably 6 months, perhaps more.

I did the RTV thing with the cap once and you are correct in order to get it off it broke. I have been carrying an extra cap for some time as it is easier to just replace the cap than try to dry it out. I have not tried to plug the rivets (holes) in the distributor top but will before next water outing. Sure hope this works getting real tired of stopping to dry out. My 710 with stock ignition system has never failed me in any water situations.

Mike, try Loctite Anerobic sealer. It only cures under pressure, fills gaps up to .o5o", and is easily removed(forms a pliable membrane}