THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Hello. Here is how I get a 710m started on these fridged mornings. Let me know if this is normal. We are contemplating an aux heater.
When I start the truck, I put both heater control levers up. That closes off the heat to the vents and directs all air from heat exchanger to the air cleaner. That preheats air into carbs. It really does seen to help with cold weather running.I also pull choke knob almost the whole way up. After starting I push choke down about half way till just before engine starts just to sputter. I leave knob there and kind of "babysit" engine to keep it from racing. As it warms, The idle goes up. I push choke knob in to keep rpm's at approx 1500. After approx 10 min, I start driving. After a few miles I can start moving heater control down about half way which puts heat to cab (defroster). I also push choke off completely. As heat warms up ducting, I open valve to feet,(left foot,haha). This seems to be the best results so far. I don't get any real heat to feet. And the heater seems to just take the bite out of the cold. This seems to give me the smoothest startup and takeoff. After several miles I am able to divert more heat to cab, but not all. Engine starts to backfire if I take all heat away from air cleaner If this sounds normal, then ok. If this sounds like something is amiss, please advise me. I have a set of carb kits on order. Thank you. Brian

After about 17 Pinzgauers, none of them run worth a damn when cold. The colder it is the worse they run. Cover your grill at whatever temperature you feel is appropriate. You run the risk of overheating the rear cylinders if you forget to uncover it I have heard. I run mine completely covered all winter long usually if it's below 30 degrees. I have never noticed or tried to deal with the heater controls. If it's just you in the cab, take the hose off the main trunk and you will have an immediate huge difference in heat on/near your feet/legs. That being said, it screws your defrost.

Moving the heater controls do not redirect air to the air cleaner or carbs.
The heat exchanger is a fresh air exchanger (like on old VWs). The levers on the dash only direct air to the vents, and to block flow of the warm air from the exchanger. It's not like a water cooled engine where the heater core robs the engine of initial heat.

The "choke" is a fuel enrichment system ( where as a choke restricts air to richen the fuel for cold start, the Pinz adds fuel, same end result). But where a choke is infinately adjustable, the Zeniths only have 3 positions, opening different fuel ports for different enrichments. Closed, all ports are blocked, and 1/2 way and fully opened, different ports are opened. In any other position, the ports are blocked ( other than seepage from partial blocked ports). It is not fully adjustable as if controled by a gate valve.

Dave Dunn

Thanks for the reply. I thought that my shutting off air flow to cab, more would be directed to air cleaner. And thank you for the clarification of the choke/enricher. Eric M. posted this link for insulated tubing. http://www.selbyboatcentre.co.uk/chandl ... cts_id=143 Brian