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Cannot seal joints on small stub pipes. Had new rings, still CO2 and CO coming up through the vents in cab. Has anyone fitted the flexi joint kit from SAV and does it join from the manifold ends to the heat exchanger.
The picture from SAV looks like it bolts to the exhaust box. Is it difficult to fit and is there any modifications?

Have you contacted SAV for help? I have found them nothing but willing to go the extra mile when I have had questions.

To be fair - In my experience, almost every dealer has been willing to go the extra mile. A few weeks ago I was in Golden, Colorado (USA) scavenging parts from a wrecked Pinz at Linden Engineering (Dennis Williams if you search around). I am from Utah and don't know the Denver area very well. Dennis spent quite a bit of time calling around finding me a good price on the tires I wanted at no profit to himself. His daughter, doing desk duty, took the time to print out a map of directions to the vendor, and was genuinely pleasant to chat with.

As long as I am rambling: my rule of thumb in the Pinz community - if you are honest and pleasant, you will be treated well.

For contrast, Dennis used to lend out tools to Pinz owners. One owner took it upon himself to keep the loaner tools, at a great financial loss to Dennis. So he no longer lends out tools. One slimy bastard costs all of us honest people.

But what else is new?

(This diatribe brought to you by a broken neck, Methadone, Soma, Percocet and Barton Vodka).

-Evan

I've installed the SAV kit and it wasn't too difficult but was easier when I asked for help from my younger and more flexible neighbor. The kit does connect from the ends of the manifolds to the flange on the front of the heat exchanger. The manifolds have rings welded on them for mating up to the stub pipes and these rings have to be ground off for the flexi kits to fit. You almost have to remove the manifolds from the engine to grind the rings off though someone else on the forum may have an alternative method. If you decide to remove the manifolds you might want to have a spare stud or 2 on hand. I broke 2 of mine.
Hope this helps.

Paul

Pretty easy to install. But why would C02 becoming in if the leak was not the problem?

Evan, I doubt percocet and vodka should be mixed. What is Methadone? Hope your neck gets better.

Mike,

The COx could be entering the cab from the heat exchanger. How are you detecting it? Can you couple the detector directly to the output of the heat exchanger?

Erik:

The management of chronic pain is no small thing. Alcohol potentates narcotic medications, so education is key. Alcohol helps if used properly - very vague, which is why "no" is the simple answer.

My experience with installing Staun beadlocks is forthcoming - once the weather turns back from snow to sunshine again!

-Evan

I installed the SAV kit too. Made a huge difference in the noise and odor on my rig. Hardest part was grinding the rings off.

Scott (Expedition Imports) has a similar item with a slightly different design.

Tested the CO + CO2 from the vents in the cab with a Kane analyser. The readings were extremely high. Then I covered up the flap that the hot
lever controls with duct tape and it stopped the CO + CO2 coming into the cab. So I sealed up the stud pipes with gasket sealer and when I started the engine it all blew out so I naturally assumed that they were leaking.
On the front of my heat exchanger are two tubes coming out so I still
don't know where the rectangular plate with the six holes in it from the SAV kit fits.

Mike,

there are two types of heat exchanger/exhaust manifold connections. One is pipe-to-pipe, which is what you have.

The other is flat plates on the end of the manifold pipes and the inlet to the heat exchanger.

In short - you have the conversion kit for the setup you don't have.

-Evan

Also have the SAV flex kit. For a few reasons I decided to tig weld it in place.

One being the two slots / tube in the flex that allow it to slide over the manifolds had at least a half inch gap showing when mounted. I did free the heat exchanger bolts to allow for adjustments, there were still gaps/holes showing. The other thing I wanted to avoid was having to trust clamps to seal the tubes witch in past history have proven to leak. I also had to sand/file the OD of the stock pipes to make it easier for flex tubes to slide over. After aligning everything made some reference marks to clock tubes to manifolds. Had already had the manifolds jet hot coated couple years ago. After welding sprayed some high temp BBQ paint on welds. I'm hoping I never have to mess with this again BTW of course after installation saw that Scott at EI is now selling a nice flex and very good price as well.

Are the manifolds divided two cylinders at a time for a reason?

I am wondering if your idea of welding the flex tube to the manifold (which I think is awesome) would hinder access to the the manifolds or simply will just force you to remove the whole 2 manifolds instead of just only one.

How dificult was the installation?

Carlos.

It was tougher getting everything lined up to fit prior to welding than final install. I spent allot of time making sure the tubes slid together with no binding or interference for ease of installation. Welded them up on a Saturday at work. Took care also in fixturing everything to keep alignment marks when welding. Install was actually very easy in comparison. The piece of mind having no exhaust leaks is wonderful & quiet If I ever did need to remove the flex. A bit of grinding is all that would be required didn't go overboard on the welds.

Mark, that looks great. I'm thinking of doing that too. My clamps are always working themselves loose. I have noticed a small leak starting where the flex-pipe goes into the steel sleeve. I'm not sure what to do about that yet.

Thanks for your response. I'll send my pics when done.