THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I was driving home tonight and all the sudden the 4500 tach light came on. I was on the highway and only had 10 miles to go. It was flashing off and on, sometimes solid. It seemed to be running fine. When I pulled off and came to a stop, it died and wouldn't start again. Towed it home, it would start for 10 seconds and then die. Any ideas?

Wondering if any of you have ever had one vapor lock on you? I am at high altitude, and it is one of the hottest days of the year. I was running pretty hard, around 60-62 mph. As it sat and cooled, it would start for longer periods of time before dyeing. The tack light started flashing as I was pulling a hill.

This is a bad time for this to happen, I have been using it to move. I have 11 week old twins and I really need it running right now.

Scratch vapor lock. I can get it to start, but as soon as I rev it up, the 4500 light starts flashing and it dies. It is about 65 degrees out right now. It is getting fuel and air. I just converted it to civilian ignition and pertronix ignitor. Could the ignitor be bad? Where does the 4500 light connect? In other words, where is the module?

Sounds like the module maybe going bad but from what i've read it shouldn't start if bad? it's behind the dash mounted to the body.

http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... t=4500+rpm

Jim will probable be able to help shortly.

Just drawing straws but could be a loose wire pop a beer. And dig in to it.

Like Erik said it is behind the dash and mounted to the front body wall. It is black plastic about 4" long, 2.5" wide and an inch thick. It has a molex plug on one end and if you can reach the plug and remove it, you can jumper it and proceed. Jim L. helped me out at this link: http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... highlight=

Of course it's possible that it's something other than the module. Maybe Jim will jump in.

Paul

Unplug the module and jumper the two center terminals on the plug, it should start right up

I had a very similar problem, Jim L's jumper of the 4500rpm box solved it. Just to be clear, the RPM box has a six terminal plug (two rows of three terminals) - jumper the second (middle) terminal in one row to the second (middle) terminal in the other row. This bypasses the box (when the connector is not plugged into the box).

The 4500 rpm box is suposed to monitor the current pulses that go through the coil (this is how it can decide the rpm). If it thinks the RPM is too high, it "shorts out" the coil power to keep the engine from over-revving. In my case, I was only getting about 7 volts to the coil (nomal is around 17 volts (droped down from 28 volts due to the ballast resistor). Mine always ran, but with really weak spark and would sputter anytime I stepped on the gas.

So I unplugged the connector, added the jumper, and it ran great. So I just taped up the end of the connector with the jumper in place. I don't need no stinkin' 4500rpm module...

Jim M.
712W and 710M

Should be noted the idiot light is there for a reason.

Got up this morning and jumped the wires on the 4500 module. Fired right up. Made the 35 mile run to work. About half way it started hesitating. 5 miles out I started getting some "pops". Died as I pulled into the parking lot. Won't start. Not getting spark. Tried a NAPA coil, no go. Help!!!!

Alright, did a bunch of tests. It was definetly not getting spark. Tried a NAPA coil, no spark. Talked to Scott at EI and he said the resistor in the dash might be wired wrong giving me too much voltage at the coil, frying it. He also told be to check the ignitor. Said if the coil was fried, ignitor might also be fried. Told me to check for a bubble on the side. So, into the distributer I go. Pulled the ignitor, no bubble. Put it back together. Before calling my shrink for an electrical Pinzguaer problem on the couch session, I decided to try it once more. Fired right up.

Rev'ed it up, got 17-21 volts at coil. Seems to be running fine.

Now I am scared to drive it. Still not sure why the 4500 light would tie into no spark, especailly after jumping the module. I hope I jumped the right one, 4 inches long, black, says VDO on it. The issues only happen after running it for 20-30 minutes. Not only that, it slowly does it.

So, getting right voltage to coil, 4500 light blinks after running for 20 minutes, Pinz starts losing power, dies, won't start, after a few hours, will start.

I hate electrical issues more than anything. Might be time to call the shrink........

Your symptoms are the same as mine were, except for the 4500 light, mine doesn't light up at all. The first time mine died it restarted after only a few minutes but ran for a shorter length of time. After that it took longer between starts and ran shorter times, untill it would not start at all.

I replaced the petronix with points and she started right up and ran for 2 hours untill I turned it off, confident that the problem was solved. No problems since.

Current setup is Points, Civy cap, Civy plugs and wires.

Miles

anyone ever have an iginitor go bad or only work some of the time?

I hope this doesn't sound too obvious but did you jumper the plug from the back side of it and then connect it back into the module? That shouldn't be done. It has to be left disconnected. I don't really understand how your 4500 light is flashing if the module is disconnected but then I'm definitely not great at much of the electrical stuff.

Paul

Time to pull out the volt meter and start at one end or the other till you find voltage or lose it. Kinda sounds like a loose wire or short. Only dies when it gets hot.