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24 volt plug
Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:38 am
by totaljoint
Is there a plug available to fit the screw-cap 24 volt outlet behind the front passenger's seat?
Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:32 pm
by edzz
24v plug
Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:12 pm
by krick3tt
Got mine from SAV, use it for a spot light.
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 12:01 am
by chacaocop1
hhehe
Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 6:06 pm
by Picasso
I wouldn't run to much off it. You might want to double check the connections for it first. On one of my trucks the wire crimp was not that great and would cut out.
Re: 24 volt plug
Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 9:40 pm
by blackstack
totaljoint wrote:Is there a plug available to fit the screw-cap 24 volt outlet behind the front passenger's seat?
don't forget that circuit is always hot as long as the battery is "on". The key doesnt turn it off, so you might want to put in a switch.
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:31 pm
by yaknowthatguy
anyone know the max amp draw through this? it looks like a great way to rig my 24-12v converter in the truck..... but I plan to run an aircraft intercom and a Yaesu ham radio off it at a minimum. I suspect I'll have to alter the setup for the radio due to its own inherent draw (and run it direct with an isolator or something), but figured I'd at least ask. thanks for posting the question, I was going to do the same thing until I saw your post!
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:33 pm
by edzz
This outlet was intended for the military radio gear, I believe it’s rated at 400 watts so about 16.5 amp @24v. So even if the 24 to 12 converter is only 85% efficient you should be able to draw near 30 amps at 12 volts out of the converter. My Kenwood transceiver is rated at 11 amp @12 volt suspect (or about 130 watts) your Yaesu should be about the same leaving around 10 amps of 12 volt power for other accessories not that I’d really want to be running that close to the max output of the converter much of the time. I use my converter only for the radio gear and use individual NTE1936 (12 volts to 2 amp) regulators (about $10 each)
http://www.ecgcanada.ca/specs/1900to199 ... te1936.pdf for the gps and such low draw accessory’s with power drawn from other locations.
73
Ed
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:47 pm
by totaljoint
I have been running a 6 seat (3 station) Sigtronics intercom system with no problems since I put it in.
It powers 3 amplifiers and 6 headsets. Not a big draw anyway.
Ed
Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:37 pm
by karoja
Any idea which of the two outlet pinholes is positive? Is the outlet connected through the key switch, or is it always hot (unless of course you opne the main breaker)? Thanks in advance,
Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 5:30 pm
by edzz
Always hot. don't remember the pin out, a test light or volt meter will answer the question.
Ed
Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:49 pm
by karoja
Thanks!
ham base radio with cross band repeater?
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 1:14 pm
by Skeej
yaknowthatguy wrote:anyone know the max amp draw through this? it looks like a great way to rig my 24-12v converter in the truck..... but I plan to run an aircraft intercom and a Yaesu ham radio off it at a minimum. I suspect I'll have to alter the setup for the radio due to its own inherent draw (and run it direct with an isolator or something), but figured I'd at least ask. thanks for posting the question, I was going to do the same thing until I saw your post!
This box then would be a good source of power for a ham base radio, if you wanted the option that I see some come with now- option to leave them on, with an internal swithch to cut-off at some pre-set amount of power remaining, for example, to allow the base to serve as a cross-band repeater?
Anyone have experience with doing that-
I'm thinking it would be nice to have that base simply as a backup to a 2m hand-held- the truck parked in the right place makess another connection to other repeaters, to "phone home" or to simply have tthe backup to emergency responders who monitor that band,
as is the case here in So Cal mountains?
Noob question in Re: hhehe
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 1:19 pm
by Skeej
Picasso wrote:I wouldn't run to much off it. You might want to double check the connections for it first. On one of my trucks the wire crimp was not that great and would cut out.
In service of any others too shy to show their ignorance...
(as I cheerfully admit mine - :roll: )
1. Which crimp connectors and where, specifically?
2. What did you do to make those more reliable-
are they fixable as is, or should a guy replace them with something newer and better, to avoid that problem in future?
Re: 24v plug
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 1:26 pm
by Skeej
krick3tt wrote:Got mine from SAV, use it for a spot light.
Got 2 myself- looks like a good "must have" for future item.
I'm using one to power a VIC1 on 24V- to be built and tested- let you know how it goes when done.
And a second to run a 24V to 12V downconverter- question for anyone who might know-
is there likely to be signal interference back to a CB on 12v, or to a ham base, from combining power out at that box, to two dissimilar downstream voltages?
If so, how do you filter it out?
(fyi I'll be putting a MX7777 box in the VIC1 - that is negative polarity protection for the boxes and radios that ran off the 24v in original setup.
and talking to a battery/power guy- who runs his 12v stuff off a RigRunner relay board, so any advance thoughts, tips, or lessons learned will be muc appreciated, and
"what works" will be shared back, once its tested in my truck...