THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Hello All

I am in the middle of a clutch replacement and I have a few of questions.

I have torque values for the flywheel bolts but does anyone know if there are specific torque settings for the 6 bolts that bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel?

The torque setting I have for the flywheel bolts is:
Pre tighten with 20nm & tighten with a torsional angle of 60 degrees. Is this the same as 250ft lbs?

I am using Loctite 243 for the flywheel bots. From what I can see it is the same as 421. Does anyone know if this is ok?

This may be a bit of a dumb question but here goes. The old pilot bearing was an open race type with visible ball bearings & this bearing was packed with grease. My replacement is a Japanese bearing from EI with sealed sides (no balls visible). Do I need to grease this as I can’t see any way of packing it?

My old clutch plate looks like it has a bit of life left in it when compared to the new one. I am sure I have read this on the forum before but is there a serviceable limit for this plate?


Thanks in advance chaps.

Sam

Ok now I understand the wierd Tourqe explanation. I just looked at my tourque wrench and it only goes to 150ft lbs. I just read Dennis's explanation to a previos thread about turning them ONE FLAT & will do this.

Any answers to the other questions would be appreciated

Sam

Pilot bearing is sealed and contains high temp bearing grease, no need to pack.
Flywheel bolts are 240ft lbs
cover bolts are 16-18 ft lbs in a star patern in 2-3 steps to avoid damage to the cover.
loctite: one drop only on flywheel bolts, none on cover bolts.
All this is in the repair manual as well as service limits for wear

Hi Jim

Thanks for your help. I will get it finished over the weekend.

It was making a chirping noise and after taking it apart it was the throwout bearing that was making the noise. It was pretty sloppy and even a small turn by hand made a squeaking noise.

I got some graphite grease for use on earthmoving equipment as well and greased up the ball joints & forks so it should be a bit different when I get it back together.

Sam

Hi Sam, may I refer you to this post for some more chirping after a clutch job:
http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... php?t=5127

Hi All

I have finished my clutch job and the chirping has dissapeared, the actuation is much lighter (due to the graphite grease) and the whole thing is a lot smoother than before so I am chuffed to bits with it.

I do have one question though now the clutch bites a lot lower down than before. I think this is due to the increased thickness of the new plate over the old worn one. It is quite close to the bottom of the pedal travel and I was wondering if I can adjust this? I have had a quick look in the manual and there is nothing on clutch adjustment and I haven't fully investigated under the truck yet.

There is a bit of movement of the pedal prior to it biting so it is not a real problem and it is not slipping but I would like a bit more travel prior to biting, or is this something I am just going to have to get used to?

Thanks

Sam

SAM. C.
The low pedal deflection is normal for a self adjusting clutch such as in the Pinzgauer, this can be "Tuned" by changing a pushrod in most cases but in any case it will change as the clutch wears and the pressure plate fingers deflect out.
The reason for the low start torque on the flywheel bolts is a simple one.
Most repair shops can cource a torque wrench to accomodate the intial torque, few have one that is in excess of 200lbf ft.
So by setting the bolt to the prescribed torque then turning it one flat you achieve the correct flywheel bolt tightening & bolt stretch in the field with fewer special tools. This is the simple virtue of this truck and its intrinsic attractiveness for a practical vehicle.
Dennis

This might be a dumb question, but how to you hold the flywheel stationery while tightening the bolts? Is there a method to do this? I haven't changed a clutch in a Pinzgauer yet.

And the secret answer is...........Use a flat double box end wrench over a belhousing stud and bolt the other end to the flywheel with a clutch cover bolt. Or drill two holes in a piece of scrap 4-5" long 3/16" thick strap steel .

Thanks Dennis

Yes after doing the job it really is something that could be done anywhere if you had a few tools. The gearbox went in a treat and was a lot more managable than I though it was going to be.

With regard to the adjustment it actually feels like it bites at a much better location than before. Also I dont know why but it is a lot smoother as well.

Pinzinator to keep the flywheel still I just jammed a wedge of wood between the teeth on the outside of the flywheel and the cover on the end of the starter and it held it firmly. I was going to jam it between the outside of the flywheel and the casting at the bottm that bolts on to the bellhousing but was a bit worried it might crack the casting and I would have been up poop creek if it had so I looked elswhere.

Thanks Guys

Sam