THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Gents,

I searched the old and new forums for a torque value for the drain plugs and I came across a post that recommended 8 ft/lbs.

Today, I changed out my hub fluid and torqued the drain plugs to the recommended value of 8 ft/lbs and it seemed like they were not tight enough.

Any thoughts on whether this is tight enough or not?

Cheers

On bits and pieces like drain plugs etc I just tighten them by "feel" and don't worry about actual torque settings.

..... and remember, "just tighten them ONE tight, not TOO tight"

Thanks, Peter.

I have put in the new plugs from E.I. and I didn't want to tighten them down to the point of stripping, but 8 ft/lbs didn't feel right either.

Remember that you are putting Steel Plugs into an aluminum hole!

Don't over-tighten and be sure to use an Anti-Seize compound on the threads.

If you strip out the aluminum threads you will have to use "heli-coils" of another type of thread insert...kind of a pain.

If you use new copper seal rings the torque is fine. If you want to re-use the seal rings you need to anneal them first. When you install the seals you are work hardening them as they are conforming to the fit. If you re-use them without annealing them they are too hard to give a good seal and may seep.

Also if you use the prescribed torque you won't have to beat the plugs out, taking a chance of screwing up the aluminum case thread. Common problem when you buy a used truck (people want to tighten it down so it won't leak).

Never had a problem using the factory torque, don't leak and are easier to get out again!

Best of luck.

Thanks Thomas.

That is why I wanted to double-check the torque value. I didn't want to go by my own judgement (just one tight, not two tight...as Peter says!) because of the aluminum threads. It just seemed to be too low when my wrench 'clicked'.

I did use anti-seize on the threads, and I used new copper rings (I figure they are cheap insurance).

Cheers,