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I have already fixed the rust on my 712 and painted the exterior of it in my restoration process.

I am ready to take the Pinz to be lined in the back, but I am facing a dilemma:

Should I take it to be lined with or whitout the side and rear panels? I have seen pictures of Pinzgauers lined wihout the panels installed all the way to the outer body edge and the panels have been installed over the lined surface. Others having the panels installed and sprayed over with the panels installed. I am not sure what is the best approach to it.

The Rhino Lining adds a thick layer of polymer and I think it will give me trouble installing the panel afterwards, but If I rhino line it with the panels installed, water may leak from the outside and stay trapped causing rust in the future.

Any experiences to be shared?

The two big guys out their are Rhino Lining and Line-x
Rhino lining is alot thicker then Line-x and can cause fit issues in some cases. When looking at the areas you want to coat, consider this thickness.
I personally like Line-x better because it is thinner. but have had great results with Rhino linner in the past as well. I suspose Rhino liner might have better sound deading qualities, but not sure.
I plan on using Secound skin on my truck followed by line-x. This should reduce the hermonic vibration noise these trucks produce and then protect it from the elements.
Good luck and be sure to post some photos when done!
Shawn
Tacoma, WA

Had work done with Linex. Less expensive, more colour choices and does not settle thicker in low places. Cures rapidly. Just needs a bit of scuffing up on the metal surface for adequate bonding.

Check car shows, got a discount coupon there saved me $50.

They can tape off places that you don't want the coating (like the side panels). Put a dowel in any screw holes that you may eventually want to reinsert a screw. Might want to take out the trans and other cover plates and do them separate so you can get to the screws when access is necessary.
Chat with them first and tell them your concerns about access panels.

You are exactly right. Mine was sprayed witht the panels installed. I have a water tight lining on the inside and it looks great and durable and all the bolts won't loosten as they are covered by Rhino. However, water can leak between panles/body from the outside and continue the rusting between the panel and the truck body underneath.

Either tape the footprint of the panel on the body so that future rust preventative measures would allow the panels to be removed and no Rhino under where the side panel contacts the truck. Or
cut the lining between the inside of the panel and the body to take them off to prevent further rust in the future.

Be sure to do the same with any access panels in the bed of the truck, or you'll have to cut them out as well. Don't spray the footprint of the Transmission access hatch, since it will push you 1/16 to 1/8 inch out of alignment vertically on the bulkhead and horizontally on the floor for the screw holes on reattachment.

Carefully prep all the metal that will be sprayed to allow adhesion, there are some areas on mine where the Rhino is not attached to the underlying metal. I''m told that can it can be reattached and repaired with some silicone glue.

Remember that Rhino has a rough texture on the edge that can rub and wear the under surface of your canvas as you drive. Don't spray on surfaces that contact the canvas (hoops/panels).
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totaljoint wrote:.However, water can leak between panles/body from the outside and continue the rusting between the panel and the truck body underneath.

Either tape the footprint of the panel on the body so that future rust preventative measures would allow the panels to be removed and no Rhino under where the side panel contacts the truck. Or
cut the lining between the inside of the panel and the body to take them off to prevent further rust in the future.

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Thanks for the tips. You are basically suggesting that no line-x is sprayed where the panel touches the body, but leave a way to remove the panel for future repairs?

AZ712DK wrote: My preference is to do them with the sides off (in case of future body panel repairs). A little more work but I think in the end it is better. They can adjust thickness and texture just need a skilled guy doing the spraying. From experience I would avoid colors. Black is easy to touch up if needed and cleans up and looking nice. It is also a very neutral color if you ever sell it.

If you remove the besides you want to mark the edge before removal. Usually have them go a little heavier on the center floor section and lighter on the sides and a little heavier on the bed side tops. You will suck up about 5-15 hours depending on skill and luck breaking the truck down and reassembly.

That is my two cents.

Thanks for your suggestion. You as well as totaljoint are suggesting to not spray the surface of the bed where the side panels?

Has any of the configurations sprayed line x where the panel touches the body?

That would be my suggestion, or if they are sprayed while bolted together, cut the lining at the joint so that the panel can be removed for cleaning/rust control every few years. You'd be surprised how rust/ fretting corosion can occur between even similar metals in the enclosed humid environment of a panel/body joint. Ask me how I know, and why my transmission hatch flang is "holy-er than thou's"

Trust me, I know. I had to replace one side panel and repair the panel footprint on the bed since the rust started to "eat" the metal on the body.

For that reason I would like to line x the edge as well but the thickness may bring problems fitting the panel back in. That is where my dilemma is.

Brian, I would love to have a look at your pics. I am nearly at this point and any insights I can get to make this better/easier would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Robert

Thanks Brian! And yes please send the pictures. I would love to see how you did it.

Carlos.

Brian, Were you able to compress the linex enough between the panel and the body to prevent the exterior elements from entering the inside?

Brian,

The technique that you're describing is the approach you used on my (formerly your) 712 and on the 710 that Justin just acquired? By the way, how many former Brian Mason trucks are floating around out there? :?:

David

I think it might be interesting for you guys that have done it, to report on any sound improvements after treatment.

while certainly not calibrated for legal purposes, there is an iphone app called SPL Meter that is pretty close. I've calibrated mine vs a spendy SPL meter we have here at work, and mine stays within .1dBa of the real one. For our purposes, I think this is pretty good, especially given it's a way to measure at the user's ear while driving without hard-to-find gear.

This is how I found out how loud my pinz was..... 93dBa at freeway speed (which under OSHA would give you just over 2 hours unprotected exposure). Later I found out I had an undiagnosed hole in the exhaust. I was thinking all pinzes were that loud....

That exhaust was the first thing I fixed when it got here. Much better now.