THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

My Pinz is a 1972 710M....So vehicle was running fine with no electrical issues prior to taking the starter out and having it cleaned and serviced at an auto electric shop. May or may not be relevant to my current issue but I find true coincidences to be rare.

So after reinstalling the starter I went for a drive and noticed that my reverse lights were not working. After returning to my garage I quickly noticed breakers #7 and #8 had been tripped. I tried to reset the breakers with the key still in the on position. Number 8 breaker reset normally resuming the function of the reverse lights. Number 7 would not reset at all. At this point as I turned the key off I heard a loud pop (similar to a bulb bursting) that seemed to come from the engine compartment?? All lights and gauges seem to still be functioning as normal, engine still fires right up and I have yet to find anything effected by the #7 breaker being tripped.

1) What does the #7 breaker control?
2) what does #8 Breaker control?
3) Any ideas what the popping noise may have been?
4) Will their be any negative side effects to operating the vehicle without the #7 breaker?
5) Does a breaker that does not reset at all mean its no good?
6) any suggestions or ideas as to what would have tripped both breakers initially?

Operators Manual gives the following for Fuse connections for units equipped with ignition switch.

1) What does the #7 breaker control? -- No. 7 8 amp. Warning blinker, roof lamp, reading light, 2 pole plug socket


2) what does #8 Breaker control? -- No. 8 8 amp. No function, (recording mileage counter)*

Hope this helps

what I have seen is that the breaker numbers don't always line up with the electrical diagram. As far as running these trucks with a breaker popped it will not make any difference. They are far too basic of a design to have any concern with the breakers. The systems will either have power and work or lack power and not function.
Yes if the breaker does not set for a moment it is a good indication the breaker is bad. They are thermal breakers and need to heat up before they will trip, even with a direct short this will take a moment.
Breaker replacement has been discussed in the past, a simple search will tell you all you need to know.

popping noise I have no idea. a clicking noise would more than likely (if you could hear it with the engine shroud on) would be one of the carb cut off solenoids.

unless you have not installed the ground wires correctly I don't see how changing the starter would have anything to do with symptoms you are describing.

My schematic indicates that #7 breaker is for the optional front blackout light. #7 on my 710M is not connected to anything. If you have a front blackout light in the grill hole it is probably plugged in to a jack mounted in front of the 4X4 locker master cylinder.

#8 is for the rear blackout lights (pink wire) usually in the tail lights. The pink wire is often re-purposed for either brake lights or for the reverse lights as yours is.

Thanks for all the quick replies.... So I had a spare breaker on the shelf and pulled the #7 and replaced it. Yes it was toast and would not reset even after removed. I do have the black out light in the grill but did not see that response until after I was done. It did have a orange wire with black stripe if that corresponds with anything.

Yes the #8 did have a pink wire that is being used as part of a 3 bulb tail light system as well as the reverse lights were added to that circuit. Unfortunately I was in a little bit of panic mode with a trip planned in the morning and did not initially remember that I had done both of these upgrades myself last year using the #8 circuit, lol.

Its still a mystery as to what the popping noise was but everything is functioning so I will just run it as is, until if or when new symptoms develop

Oh and I do have manuals but they were at a friends house, who of course was gone all day. Like most things they are right there in front of me until I need them, lol