THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

After sitting for 7 weeks at the paint shop (all wheels were removed for powder coating, and the axles sat on jack stands for about a week) my 712 has developed a new noise.

It's a very low rubbing/grinding noise when I make even a moderate turn, some what louder to the right but also present turning to the left. I don't hear it when driving straight, but my son with better hearing says he hears it slightly on a straight drive as well. It's about 1/2 as loud as the engine noise when turning to the right. If I coast and turn, it's still there. If I shift the transfer case into neutral it's still there, and is there irrespective to which gear I'm in.

Seems to be coming from the front differential best as I can tell. My lockers engage and disengage just fine, and there is no increased resistance at the steering wheel.

Well intentioned friends have suggested everything from bad diff gears to wheel bearing problems.
I know I have to jack up each front wheel and push/pull at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock to check for bearings.
After that, can anyone give me some advice as how to diagnose this new noise? Any possibility it could be something simple (like low fluids)? except that I've had absolutely no drips.
Thanks!!
Ed

Make sure the brake drums are seated and wheels are tight.
All lugs should be at the same level on the wheel studs, if not, remove the suspect wheel and verify the drum is seated on the hub.

Hmm - wondered whether the wheels off thing was relevant - be good to know if this sorts the problem....

Ed,

Who put the wheels back on? If it was the shop it may be that simple. Some folks don't know the wheel can't be tightened while on the ground.
Like Jim says...it can be that simple.

fresh powder coat on wheels? http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... l&start=15

Ah Ha. Thanks for the tips, I'll check that first thing tomorrow.
Yes the paint shop put the wheels back on, no I didn't check the lug's depth in the nuts or their tightness.
The tires were running about 35 psi prior to the change, they were up'ed to 55 psi by the tire shop when remounted.

Should I use an air impact wrench on the lugs or will that damage the threads?

Here are some picts of the newly painted truck and Tough River Stuff top on our outing yesterday:
https://picasaweb.google.com/totaljoint ... directlink



Thanks!!
Ed

totaljoint wrote: Should I use an air impact wrench on the lugs or will that damage the threads?
Ed

Torque wrench please.

Just to complete the story:
Wheels were on good and tight. Must have been put on by an impact wrench. All lugs centered too.
I followed Jim L.'s advice and tested the front wheels by jacking up the differential (block of wood between the floor jack and diff), then spinning the tires by hand while number 3 son turned the steering wheel right and left: both front wheel hubs were the source of the low grinding.

While jacked up, I followed Andre S.'s advice and took the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and rocked in and out. Left wheel had a little play, right had a lot, indicating bad bearings.

Plan now is to take off outer hub and see if I can send it to Goatwerks for new bearings and the brake shoes to EI to be relined while I'm at it.

Anything I should know about the removal and reassembly of the outer hub from those who have been there?
Ed

totaljoint wrote:Plan now ~~ and the brake shoes to EI to be relined while I'm at it.
Ed

Don't know Scotts prices on brakes however it may cost less to have them relined locally (Lake city is sort of local, less chance of them getting lost by the shipping company). I had these guys reline the braked shoes for my series III Landrover and was very pleased with the service I received and the low price compared to the Landrover dealer in Seattle, mind you that was back in ’78.

Metal Frictions Inc
12551 26th Ave NE
Seattle, WA 98125
Neighborhood: Lake City

http://www.yelp.com/biz/metal-frictions-inc-seattle

Outer hub removal is easy: just have to disconnect the brake line, brake shoes, and then remove the socket head bolts to allow the outer half of the hub (along with the axle, bearing, and large axle gear) to pull away from the inner part. The inner part will still have the axle's inner needle bearing to be pulled out and the drive gear. The outer ball bearing assembly is hidden between the large axle gear and the outer half of the hub; this is where the proper tooling and practice make removal/replacement/re-assembly by someone who does it often enough is worth while. I'd replace the seal in there while it is apart.

Then pull out and replace the inner needle bearing and bolt the overhauled outer hub back on with the proper sealant and reinstall the brake shoes, brake line (bled properly, of course) and you are done.

Jim L. has a place that relines brake shoes, too. He had mine done for me and I've been happy with them.

...by someone who does it often enough is worth while

and just when I thought I would try it myself!
Guess I'll have to wait till my local Unimog mechanic is available.
Ed

Oh, go ahead and take the hub apart; if you can't or don't want to mess with trying to pull the gear off the axle then it is ready to take or send it to someone who can do that part for you. The rest is pretty easy (even I have done it!).

Ed,
I did them too. Harbor Freight sells a puller, which you can modify to pull the gear in there. Any competent mechanic can probably help you with it. The manual is clear, and the job is straightforward.
Depends how deep your wallet is and how patient you are to wait for the other guy, but I'd give 'er a go.

Ok. Will I need more than a couple of feet of space from the wheel out? my storage unit is 10-11 feet wide, the Pinz is about 5 feet wide, leaving me with no more than 2.5-3 feet on either side. I have enough room to get the wheel off, but not to pull any axle lengths..

No, you're not pulling the axle. It sounds like it's minimally sufficient, but I wouldn't call it comfy. If you can take the tire off, you can get the rest of it apart.