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Want to get the back of the 712 done and I'm walking in blind.

first off do the disasembly yourself, as they charge alot for that. I would take the seats out all the floor plates and the side pannels off. bring in all the parts and you should pay 800 to 1,000. Don't skimp and not take the sides off. putting the linner down without doing that will excellerate rust between the bed and the sides.

The key to a successful job is prep, prep and prep. Cheaper line.x jobs skimp on the prep work. Be present to supervise the job.
If the substrate has any oil/dirt/smooth paint or rust, you will not get good adhesion of the line.x and will eventually peel. Rust continues under line.x, you just won't see it. Line.x does not adhere to intact Pinz paint. It will look good for a couple of years, but it will eventually peel and require repair if not done properly. (Liquid Gorilla Super Glue -cyanoacrylate, not polyurethane, works well here).
If you will be taking the side walls off, be sure that the thickness of the line.x under the them will not offset the mounting bolt holes on the body/bulkhead when you reassemble or you'll be drilling out some holes. Remove or tape ID/builder's VIN plates if lining up front. Any access panels you want to get to (fuel sending unit, transmission hatch) need
to be removed or you'll be cutting your line.x when you need someday to get under them, again beware thickness of spray under transmission hatch or bolts will be off set.
Line.x sprayed over the top and onto the outside of the side rails is abrasive to the vinyl top while you drive (ToughRiver tops have a nice rubber/poly wear strip in this area for such a reason).
Ed

Prep work is very important. I took my brand new Tundra in for a Line-X on the bed and the guy spent 30 min
scuffing the crap out of the paint with an angle grinder to get it to stick. I thought it was just sprayed on and that was that...not so.
It lasted for years and never did peel or chip. Sold the truck and it still looked good years later.

totaljoint wrote: Line.x does not adhere to intact Pinz paint. It will look good for a couple of years, but it will eventually peel and require repair if not done properly. (Liquid Gorilla Super Glue -cyanoacrylate, not polyurethane, works well here).
Ed

Am I following correctly that the gorilla glue is used for repairing damaged line.x? To prevent the line,x from lifting and to seal it to the surface metal?

Ed:
There were some areas (next to the tranny hatch) where it peeled off the painted surface after I cut the line.x to get the hatch off.
It quickly became apparent that the line.x did not adhere to the painted surface on the side wall in that area. Don't know, but since the paint underneath was intact, I assume that it had not been prep'd adquately. There were other areas as well, on the corners which were begining to come off.
Line.x reccomended glueing it back on with silicone, but the body shop I took it to for re-painting fixed it with the Gorilla super glue.
It reattached the line.x to the painted surface and seems to adhere very well. The Gorilla brand is more of a gel and spreads out under
the lining better than the thin watery liquid type.

I saw the covering Bernhard put on his truck. It was painted on as I recall. It is thicker than my line.x and seems to adhere better (he prep'd it himself!).
Since it was painted/rolled on, he could control the thickness depending on the area of application that needed protection. Color co-ordinated too.
It seems a more practical solution (cheaper and better) to bed protection. My line.x is looks more even and slicker (looks like a new truck), but did
need fix-up in some areas.

There is a recent video on youtube of someone taking an angle grinder with a sanding pad to the back of their Pinz. Don't know if one has to go that
far for prep. But a good wipe down with alcohol after sanding would probably be a adequate prep.
Ed