THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Im playing with my new tan pinz and reverse is being a bugger. 9 out of 10 times it grinds into reverse. It's so bad I turn the engine off before sliding into reverse and restart. Is this a synchro issue or clutch/arm adjustment? How intense is the rebuild solution?

The shift pattern in the Pinz is kinda just like those in MK1 and MK2 VW's, only its upsidedown. Reverse adjustmet is quite similar also.

Reverse is under first and there is an adjustment block under the body in the gear selector linkage. There are a few posts on here about proper adjustment and I won't bother wih the possibility of misquoting but they were very helpful when I chose to adjust mine.

If you don't have to noticibly depress the gear shift to drop below first to grab reverse, its likely just an adjustment but if it is properly shifting at the linkage and you are still skipping ovr sychros and grinding....you just may have a worn sychro.

I'm sure one of the wizards on the forum will chime in soon but I hope this starts to point you in some productive research direction.

Enjoy,
Ryan

That's because the transmission main shaft is still spinning at idle speed. Shift into any other gear first then right into reverse. The syncro on the other gears will slow the shaft. (no syncro on reverse)

To test clutch release, push down clutch pedal, count to 3 and try to engage into reverse, if it grinds it is not fully releasing. I would suspect a dragging clutch(not releasing completely), pull the floor cover and clutch inspection cover. Look for black debris or fragments, also look at pressure plate fingers(they should all be even with each other).
It could also be a partially siezed pilot bearing.

Jim, checked access port. Even took video of it as it was easier to see in with my phone. As clean as a whistle in there.

It seems that I really have to fully press the clutch to get it into 2nd. Could the small piece visible through the port need to be lengthened?

added 1mm to the slave pin. Good to go!

How did you add 1mm to the slave pin? Weld and grind or other?

Miles

I do not posses a welder so i had to employ the services of Carlos. He runs a 3 bay garage cleverly hidden behind a restaurant - was happy to have one of his guys lay a few mms of bead on the end for $20

It got me out of a pinch and I was happy to hand over the cash to fix the problem.

I ground it down using my bench grinder

And its back again...

If the problem returns after lengthening the slave rod, what should i look at?

I agree with Jim,pilot bearing is worth looking at.