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I was doing my annual maintenance and was about to check the timing. I found a note in a previous topic about the timing difference between the stock distributor and Petronix model. However, I couldn't find out how many RPMs the engine should be running at when checking the timing. I looked further in the archives and manual but couldn't find a number. I have a tach on my timing light, so setting the RPMs with the hand throttle is no problem.

Thanks,

I've found that 8-900 rpm works out well. IIRC, the advance starts to kick in at about 1100 rpm.

My EI Civi conversion is waiting for me at the PO, so I think I will tackle the conversion this weekend. I am borrowing a timing light and will power it from the rear battery (Thanks Jim!), but I don't have a tach, nor is there one on the timing light. Can I go by ear here, or should I wait to get one with a tach? The truck idles fine now and at an RPM I am cool with.

I find idle speeds varies with each person. I run my a little high for a/c and other things,seems to reduce the Pinz "hesitation". I am sure Dave will scold me and Jim will give me some rod specs ,but it helps.
Got the equalizer today,hope USPS is as quick for your part!
Mark

M Wehrman wrote:I find idle speeds varies with each person. I run my a little high for a/c and other things,seems to reduce the Pinz "hesitation". I am sure Dave will scold me and Jim will give me some rod specs ,but it helps.
Got the equalizer today,hope USPS is as quick for your part!
Mark

Thanks! I spoke with Scott at EI yesterday and he provided me with some advice too. Thanks Scott.

Glad you got it. If you have any issues, please let me know.

I finished the ignition conversion yesterday and the truck fired right up. I didn't have time to set the timing, but I setup my borrowed timing light on my lawn tractor just to check what it was at. At idle, and I am not sure what the RPM is at, I had to turn the advance to 40 before I saw the mark. I am not sure the timing light is working properly, or perhaps it is how I connected it, but something ain't right!!

Are you sure you're looking at the right mark? I have two on my pulley. Check by popping off the cap and lining up on cyl 1. You should see the proper mark.

audiocontr wrote:Are you sure you're looking at the right mark? I have two on my pulley. Check by popping off the cap and lining up on cyl 1. You should see the proper mark.

Possibly....I check that out! Thanks!

I only have the one mark.....



I wired up the timing gun to my pickup, and that seemed to work much better than the lawn tractor. I made sure the rotor was lined up with the #1 wire....and it appears that each plug location is roughly marked on the dist base.



I was worried that the distributor was going to be frozen in place, but once loosened, it turned without issue. Please correct me if I did this wrong, but I set the gun to zero, and turned the dist. to reflect that on the flywheel, then I turned the advance to 3-4 Deg, lined up the marks again and re-tightened the dist. I am not sure what my RPM is, but it seems right and the truck is running fine.

Yes, that's how you do it so you should be in good shape now.

Stekay wrote:Yes, that's how you do it so you should be in good shape now.

Thanks!

Actually, you need to know the rpms when you're timing it, the mechanical advance may have already started to kicked in when you set the timing, lowering the total amount of advance.
I don't have the manual anymore .. but the curve graph is in there

David Dunn wrote:Actually, you need to know the rpms when you're timing it, the mechanical advance may have already started to kicked in when you set the timing, lowering the total amount of advance.
I don't have the manual anymore .. but the curve graph is in there

Hey David.

How are you supposed to get the RPM without a tach or timing light with an RPM gauge? I think I can gauge the RPM by ear, as my Ural has trained me for that . From what I have read, the advance for just the petronix is 7-10 deg BTDC @850-950rpm, so if the truck was there before I fully converted it, and it ran fine, I am hoping that my re-adjustment of the advance to 3-4 BTDC, with a very slight drop in idle (by sound), should be okay. Is that accurate?

It's called having the right tools.
Can your ears tell 750 rpms from 900? or 921?
Check the manual and it tells when the advance starts... your ears can't tell that the distributor may already be advanced mechanicially by a few degrees, which means you don't have max advance you should have at WOT... but then again, so many of the Pinzes have been screwed with, the weights and springs aren't right.

To recall one of my old sig lines:
" Just because you took it apart and put it back together, doesn't make it rebuilt !"

David Dunn wrote:It's called having the right tools.

You mean I have to buy another tool!?!

David Dunn wrote:Can your ears tell 750 rpms from 900? or 921?

After 5 years of Ural ownership, I can tell you the difference between 750 and 900....absolutely.

David Dunn wrote:Check the manual and it tells when the advance starts... your ears can't tell that the distributor may already be advanced mechanicially by a few degrees, which means you don't have max advance you should have at WOT... but then again, so many of the Pinzes have been screwed with, the weights and springs aren't right.

To recall one of my old sig lines:
" Just because you took it apart and put it back together, doesn't make it rebuilt !"

Does the vacuum line get pulled when checking timing, or does it stay on?