24v 4 channel amplifier project finally "Complete"

[audiocontr]

Well... complete is appropriate, I have a working 24v amplifier that runs directly off of the batteries with MORE than enough volume. I originally wanted to build everything into an ammo can (and i still may) but the scrap tin box allowed me to create a functional amplifier with pieces and parts i had laying around, plus enough room to mess with the board until i was comfortable. Its some tight spaces on the board!

I actually have two of these boards and accidentally drilled through a chip! so as soon as i can find a replacement chip, I'll work on my original plan.

Anyways - Pictures can be found at the following link. you can listen to it anytime you want to stop by :

https://plus.google.com/photos/10261431 ... 1293955521

There are two pots used in the system for volume control. The main one is below the cup holders as a master volume knob. The second pot (on the case) reduces the signal going to the front speakers. Its a quasi fader that allows me to boost volume to the rear by reducing the signal to the front, otherwise the volume is BLARING in the forward cab and the folks in the back cant hear a thing over the wind noise.

Although i have not added photos, i have two Pioneer waterproof truck box speakers normally placed behind the seats. I pull them and place them into the rear when i have passengers. At the far back of the truck, i have some very inexpensive Boss waterproof speakers. They handle the power just fine.

[edzz]

Your "wink" is messing with your link. heres the edited link with a corrected " "


https://plus.google.com/photos/10261431 ... 1293955521

[audiocontr]

Thanks for catching that!

[McCall Pinz]

Sweet! I got mine running too, but wanted to make sure it worked a little longer before posting pictures. Can't wait to compare notes on the two different amps we used. Mine is plenty loud, but not earth shattering. Then again its also only running 2 channels at the moment. I didn't want to put anything valuable in a Pinz, so I used Aura component speakers, the Sure 4x100 amp, and will add a single small Pyramid 5" subwoofer. passive crossovers for all the speakers.
speakers http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=269-180
amp http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=320-302
sub http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-PW577X-5- ... 719&sr=8-2

[berger]

That is great! I may swap out the 12V setup I installed in my Iltis for something like that. How do you wire those amp boards into the 24v batteries?

[audiocontr]

McCall,, pictures please! Where did you mount it?

I'm curious about the differences of the two chips. I'm confident that unless someone needs to bridge the outputs, your chip should work just as well as the more expensive but at half the cost. I'll try to compare specs tomorrow

[audiocontr]

quote="berger"]That is great! I may swap out the 12V setup I installed in my Iltis for something like that. How do you wire those amp boards into the 24v batteries?[/quote]. I'll try to compare specs tomorrow

As far as wiring, you wire it directly to 24v. No need for an inverter. It actually performs better at 24v than 12

[berger]

That is great! I may swap out the 12V setup I installed in my Iltis for something like that. How do you wire those amp boards into the 24v batteries?

I'll try to compare specs tomorrow.

As far as wiring, you wire it directly to 24v. No need for an inverter. It actually performs better at 24v than 12

Where do the wires connect into the board? Is it just one wire run to the 24v post on the battery? While I did install a 12/24v EQ, I am horrible with wiring and electronics...

[audiocontr]

The board has a + and - terminal which you connect directly to a hot line (with a fuse). The line could be directly to the battery, or in the case of the pinz, the wire that powers a connector behind the passenger seat. The board has extra connectors for a power switch which turns it off and on... so hook it up to a power source, then hook a basic switch to two leads on the board and your set to go!

You could wire up a relay to turn it on and off with the ignition. Little bit more complex.

[audiocontr]

Specs for the two chips:

41hz.com board
http://www.profusionplc.com/pro/gex/pca ... o=TAA4100A

Parts Express board
http://www.profusionplc.com/pro/gex/pca ... tno=TK2050

So what I've found so far is the 41hz board is smaller, 2x expensive, and 65w/ch. It has slightly better distortion figures and can be bridged if desired.

The Parts Express board is easier to hook up and install. Its 45w/ch and cannot be bridged. I see a challenge with installation since you want to vent the heatsink, but not tough to overcome.

Honestly i feel the distortion differences are a null point in a pinzgauer. The power differences may be of concern but 45w/ch is still plenty of power with the right speakers and most folks will run it at 4 channels so bridging is not required. The parts express board accepts RCA inputs so you probably will not need soldering skills, but there are a couple of modifications i'd recommend to increase power. All and all, i think the Parts Express board should work very well for most Pinz owners looking to install a sound system. I may have to buy one (so cheap as is) and try the two side by side.

Nice find.

Edit: I do not see any connections for a power switch on the parts express board which means you will have to switch the main power lead. Not that big of a deal but may present a decent pop when powered on.

[McCall Pinz]

I have to defer to Audiocontr for the technical comparison of the amps. He's correct about the switching. It needs to be switched, but that's really easy with a radio shack switch inline on the + wire. The amp board has several different ways to connect including some simple screw connections. They're like vintage VW connections. Just strip the wires, put them in the holes and tighten up. I think the amp has an internal "mute on startup" that stops the pop when turning it on. Cooling may become an issue for mine. Its mounted in a wood box so there's no extra heat sink and without much ventilation. Since I'm lucky to hit 33degrees currently, that hasn't been an issue though Volume control comes from ipod. Now if I can just find my camera! When the subwoofer shows up, I'll have to take it apart anyway and take pics then.

PS- audiocontr, I'd like to get the upgrade info you mentioned.

[M Wehrman]

So does this mean along with the primered,ground effects,fat chrome tailpiped Hondas,we will have Pinzgauers going Thump,thumpa,thump at the lights?
Mark

[krick3tt]

Mine always goes thump, thump, thump ...maybe it's a tuneup thing. I'll check. :idea:

[Jimm391730]

Mine always goes thump, thump, thump ...maybe it's a tuneup thing. I'll check.

Unless you have the "new" style tires, you should fill them with air...

But we need to go "thump, thump, thump" at stoplights so people notice us.

[audiocontr]

Lol, no bump here, no subwoofers.

The amp has 4 diodes. One on each channel on the input path. You want to cut the trace of each one. It will increase power output.

They are designed to protect the amp from high voltage input signals. Something that an iPod will never cause. I simply never installed mine. Yours come pre installed