THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I'm in the installation stage of trying to position & clamp a new split axle boot (EI's), all glued and bolted up, on the rf. The rubber boot fits the flange on the diff so tight it has to be stretched significantly fit on the diff side and the axle, while on the ground, is angled down normally that the top lip refuses to stay on without 4 hands that I cannot get it clamped without it slipping/popping off.

Taking a little break thinking that I might be able to slightly jack up the rf slightly (or maybe the opposite side?) to get the rf axle completely horizontal/square withthe diff or possibly even higher to make the thing even or put the problem lip to the bottom?

Anyone have any quick tips for this last little bit? I am at an impasse until I recruit another set of hands. Can't believe there is anything special on the Austrian version.

thx for any ideas/tips/help on doing this single handed.

i use the CRAZY GLUE method...... glued and bolted while on the axle,, let it dry..then slip it on the diff, clam it!!!.....it worked for me!

waterdog wrote:i use the CRAZY GLUE method...... glued and bolted while on the axle,, let it dry..then slip it on the diff, clam it!!!.....it worked for me!

Same for me. But no "slip it on", she is too small to stay with the axle slightly down. If it was easy, it would be done Jacking that that wheel made no difference in the axle angle.

The combination of the downward angle of the axle making the top lip the problem when underneath looking up, and the extra snug fit of the boot, it required 4 hands instead of two. But it's on now.

If it's pulling loose you need to push the section wrapped around the axle further towards the differential by about one more inch+, the split boots don't flex in the same manner or as easily as the original boot so they need to be pushed in further. The tighter you can push it inward to the diferential the less travel for the boot to swing up or down.

Miles

milesdzyn wrote:If it's pulling loose you need to push the section wrapped around the axle further towards the differential by about one more inch+, the split boots don't flex in the same manner or as easily as the original boot so they need to be pushed in further. The tighter you can push it inward to the diferential the less travel for the boot to swing up or down.

Miles -

The boot this replaces was also a split boot (with a nice cut). I pushed the axle part a probably 1/2" closer than the original was mounted. If it pops off I will push the axle side in more aggressively.

You point is well taken, this particular split boot is not very flexible at all and I am half expecting it to pop in the next day or two giving me another opportunity to recruit a 2nd set of hands to re-seat it.

Thanks again for the tip.

There are good split boots and not-so-good split boots. If you buy the really cheap ones you may have more issues than are necessary.
I was told this and got mine from a reliable supplier...see one of the sponsors of this site.

krick3tt wrote:There are good split boots and not-so-good split boots. If you buy the really cheap ones you may have more issues than are necessary.
I was told this and got mine from a reliable supplier...see one of the sponsors of this site.

Mine was from a reliable supplier... one of the sponsors of this site as well.

It looks tough, which is probably good for every day other than installation day.

Remember to position the boot at 10:00 or 2:00 depending on which side it is on.
The small end must be all the way on the stepped casting, lube the axle housing to better slide the boot into place if needed.

I'm sure I wrote a post on replacing axle boots at the time, but my photos are here http://www.pinzgauer.4x4man.com/Photos.html
Remember it was an easy job, don't think I even jacked the truck up, just put it on the ramps

It went on fine, just needed 4 hands for the final hold and clamp at the same time.