THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I have my ancient 12v tach and timing light and separate tach/dwell meter but I am not sure if I will 'let the smoke out of them" on the 24V Pinz.

1. Can one of those inductive clips pick up a military shielded wire?

2. Maybe a slave 12v battery work for power?

Is there something better around to deal with 24v for setting timing, checking idle rpms? Another option is one of those $25 laser rpm meters (which I don't currently own) and the reflector stuck to the fan.

Thanks.

Can one of those inductive clips pick up a military shielded wire?

I don't believe an inductive timing light can (but try it). Many have kluged up a short conventional wire jumper between the distributor cap and the #1 plug wire to clip to.

Maybe a slave 12v battery work for power?

Works great for the timing light, this is how I've always done it.

As far as the traditional tune up meter goes (the kind for dwell, voltage, tach, etc.) I expect that it 1) won't work right, or 2) will fry from the 24V system. I can't think of any easy way to use it.

When I had the pinz in for an emissions test I was told that it is good I have the civi kit as the shielded military wires will not give a readout.

Probably have to use a short length of regular plug wire between the distributor cap and mil wire or try one of those springs/clip lights. I might have one of those somewhere.

This might be a fair option in a no 24v tach situation:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I5 ... 00_s00_i00

or

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-ph ... 66632.html

Too bad nobody has invented a panel gauge that works on the same principle.

I'm trying to figure out your problem.
If you are only using the tach and timing light for tuning, just connect to the lower battery... you're not going to do harm to the battery with their draw.
For a permanent dash tach use a resistor to cut the voltage.

David Dunn wrote:I'm trying to figure out your problem.
If you are only using the tach and timing light for tuning, just connect to the lower battery... you're not going to do harm to the battery with their draw.
For a permanent dash tach use a resistor to cut the voltage.

Thanks -

My only remaining problem is a workable mechanism to get trigger out of the mil cap and wires. The timing light has one of those spring connectors that do not seem to work well enough to get but an occasional flash out of the light. Inductive clips don't apparently work through the mil wires.

2 choices for pickup. A pigtail of wire for inductive lights or for lights that the pickup fits between , a short piece of wire on either side. just regular wire... its not like you're going to drive down the road that way.
The idea of ignition cables is to stop radio noise and have an electrical arch from the cable to the vehicle body or through yours .
For the short time you need it, just keep the cable away from anywhere an arc can jump, Especially through you.

If you are only using the tach and timing light for tuning, just connect to the lower battery... you're not going to do harm to the battery with their draw.
For a permanent dash tach use a resistor to cut the voltage.

This is fine if you are only powering a tach/timing light that does not need the connection to the coil. If you are using one of the "old school" dwell/tach/volt/etc. multi function tune up meters that had an addtional lead to the coil terminal, this will very likely damage the meter as the voltage at the coil would be twice what the meter was designed to expect. Worse than that, the meter reading won't be true - not dwell, and probably not tach or anything else.

I have one of the multifunction meters sitting in the garage and with the advent of electronic ignition and the dependability of modern cars, and the non-usefulness of it on the Pinzgauers, it has just sat... and sat... and held the shelf down in the garage. It's good at doing that.

if you use a timing lite and connect the power clip to the starter lead, you must only leave it connect for a short time. Otherwise Pop the unil will fry. Don't ask me how I know...

This is the tool you want, the bottom tool in the picture.



I bought one on ebay a while back but mine is white at the collar not black, looks like you could make one from an old military spark plug and some spare parts.

I'll post a picture of mine if I can find it.

Miles