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Well, I managed to get my 710 stuck this weekend . I was attempting to cross a small ditch that had some standing water and bottomless mud. In my own defense it was dark and I didn't see the water due to the tall grass. I tried to rock her out but it was a no go, the water got up to the bottom of the drivers door frame before we hooked up and pulled her out. She fired right up after that and we drove back home. On the way back she wasn't running 100%, some sputtering going on but otherwise ok. I took the hose out and washed all the mud off and called it a night.

The next morning she wouldn't start, I'd get a little pop here and there but that's it. I pulled the cover and gave her a look over to make sure water didn't get into the Distributor (pertronix), intake, or on the plugs. All that was good to go, the only evidence of water intrusion was some mud splatter on the bottom of the first 2 valve covers. Three things that need mention. 1. The same day I got stuck I noticed that some welds had cracked on the exhaust in front of the heat exchanger, so I purchased the flex kit from SAV but that isn't supposed to arrive until Wednesday. 2. While I was trying to get out of the ditch the welds broke all the way through and my exhaust leak went from a small crack to full on open headers. 3. I hit the 4500 RPM limit while trying to get out..

So my first thought is I probably need to check my 4500 rpm module? After doing some searching it seems like when the module goes bad the engine won't run correctly. My second question is could the lack of back pressure on the exhaust cause the engine not to run? That would really surprise me but I'm open to all possibilities at this point. The truck was running tip top before I got her stuck.

EmbarkChief wrote:The next morning she wouldn't start, I'd get a little pop here and there but that's it. I pulled the cover and gave her a look over to make sure water didn't get into the Distributor (pertronix)

My first thoughts would still revolve around the distributor having moisture in it based on what your have said. Check and double check.

Good idea, I've have light and tools today so I'll go check her out....

That 4500 rpm module can be bypassed, and I'm sure a search here will provide the specific details. I too would suspect wet ignition parts, but if not, you could bypass the module just as a test.

I saw the post about making a jumper. I assume the jumper consists of 3 wires run to the corresponding ports.

Its moisture in distributor cap =) Is your vacuum line fully functional?

Grab some WD40. Keep it with you because this will happen often. I've been thinking of crafting a velcro based sleeve out of rip stop nylon that you can wrap around the distributor to help prevent this in the future.

I may try drilling a hole on the top side of the distributor and place a rubber plug into the hole. When you get stuck, pop the plug, spray in some WD40, and start her up.

EmbarkChief wrote:I saw the post about making a jumper. I assume the jumper consists of 3 wires run to the corresponding ports.

No - just one wire about 3" with male spade connectors on each end. Pull the connector off the 4500 module. The connector has 6 female contacts, 2 rows of 3. Plug the jumper wire into the middle contact in each row. No connection to the module. This eliminates the 4500 module from the ignition system.

Gentlemen,

Thank you for all the responses. Yes, it was moisture in the distributor cap. I pulled the cap and there was moisture in the top and corrosion on the contacts. I cleaned up the contacts with some sand paper and dried everything up and she came to life. Honestly I'm pretty surprised water got in there and there is no "mud spatter" to indicate it was splashed. I am so relieved this is all it was. Now I'm going to go about waterproofing the distributor. I haven't really run her above idle yet as she is currently running open headers in my warehouse, that will have to wait until my parts come in from SAV. Thanks again!

Water in the distributor seems to be pretty common. Has anyone determined the "best way" to waterproof it?

I created a simple boot out of an old inner tube. I had the same exact symptoms when I first got my truck.

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Maybe cut a ring (loop) out of a bicycle inner tube? It may be small enough to fit fairly tightly.

I have access to some nylon sleeve here at work. I'm going to test it for permeability first.

so is the water coming in between the distributor cap and the distributor body?

I've had that same issue and with the military set up no real way to get it completely dry in the field my solution was the civy upgrade and keep a spare cap and adapter to swap out while off roading. Especially if I had a long drive home after wheeling. Never went any further trying to make it waterproof cause I figured I couldn't and would mostly likely just trap moisture in.

It's sucked in via the vents below the cap base. Sealing them caused more trouble than its worth in a high humidity area.


I upgraded my vacuum line and added a ball valve in line which is opened just a touch. It replaces a non functioning restrictor ball in the 90. I no longer have issues with atmospheric humidity. Hasn't been tested in heavy rain or fording.