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Does anyone have any information on replacing the starter? A new starter is on its way and I have no idea where to start. It is a 710K if that changes anything. Any information no matter how minimal is a huge help!

Thanks in advance!

It's a reasonable simple job. You may find it's easier to pull the clutch slave out of the way to get room, especially if you are using one of the original starting motors. Just match up the same electrical connections and you will be fine.

Removing the splash guard in the front right wheel well is crucial to accessing the starter.

This is an old thread that has some relevance.

Tony

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7447

Hi folks, I am getting into replacing the starter on my '75 710K and was reading the old thread in the last post. Jim L. says to remove the bottom nut of the dip stick tube (13mm) and remove it. I don't see a bottom nut on my tube. Does it just pull up and out? Thanks for the help.
Sandy

If I remember correctly, I just ended up pulling it.

Just did mine yesterday..straight forward job...1. disconnect crossover cable from batteries just to keep things safe. 2. remove seats and engine cover. 3. remove 2 13mm nuts from clutch slave and pull out of the way so you can access starter wiring. 4. remove starter wiring nut (13mm) and solinoid wire (regular slot head screw driver) 5. remove top 19mm starter nut. 6. remove two 10mm nuts that secure dipstick tube...tube can now be wiggled out of engine compartment and placed to the side. 7. remove lower 19mm starter nut and braided ground strap..be sure to support starter while removing fastener as it has a little weight to it..push the back of the starter upwards until the nosecone of the starter comes out and clears the bell housing..installation is the reverse of these instructions. I have seen several people post that splash sheilds need to be removed but found in my case that this did not need to be done..perhaps for certain models. One additional tip to make this job easier..when you remove the clutch slave it will be a hit or miss situation to get the rod seated back into the clutch fork..sometimes it goes right in other times it results in alot of kicking and screaming..so to avoid all of that remove the transmission access cover and the small access cover for the clutch fork( 2-10mm nuts), when you install the clutch slave you can guide the rod right back into the recess of the fork and a dab of grease to that pivot point will be a good idea. I was able to get my starter replaced in about 45 minutes and 2 beers..not a bad job at all....Cheers!!!!

Thanks for the replys guys, and for the additional tip re the clutch fork cover. Anything to make the job easier!
Cheers,
Sandy

Found the "bottom" nut on the dipstick tube...after cleaning all the gunk away it is a 13mm nut on the oil filter housing about half way down.