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So I just parked the Pinz and have not had the chance to pick it apart. I was driving around town, it was running awesome, and then as I slowed to a stop it just died. I was able to restart it with a little throttle and when I let off, it died again.

I got it home by keeping it at roughly 1/2 throttle. Which it's strange, it runs great above 2k RPM and 1/2 throttle up to WOT.

Any suggestions on where to start? Thinking it may be the red death but it runs great at increased throttle....

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You've lost power to the carb idle solenoids, or had one lead fall off one of them.

Could you provide more detail on this?

I've only ever seen the fuel cutoff solenoids. And when I'm aobve 2k RPM it runs great, so whatever the condition is, it happens on both carbs.

The fuel cutoff solenoids actually just turn off the fuel flow for idling. That's probably why Jim described them as carb idle solenoids. If they fail you can still keep the truck running above idle but not at idle.
I'd check #10 circuit breaker and the wire leads as Jim suggested to see if there is still power to the solenoids when the ignition switch is on.

Sudden vacuum leak? Brake booster or the plastic line that goes to the distributor are culprits.

Oh awesome! I had no idea the fuel cutoff solenoids did that!

I always thought it was for cutting fuel when the keys turns off... I guess I shouldn't interpret literally.

The 'functional' condition is +24V when ignition on? Do they turn off above idle or always on when ignition is on?

the transition from the 'dying' zone to 'running' zone as far as throttle position goes is very rough. It stumbles on its way up and I heard it backfire once. But I was revving up and down like crazy to keep it alive, so I will chalk that up to me.

Thanks for the quick input!

It also could be ignition related - such as a damaged hv wire to one of the plugs allowing it to short to ground. On a four cylinder engine, particularly if the idle is set low (i.e. 600 rpm), a single cylinder issue can result in it not idling.

Checking the idle solenoids is the first thing to check as it is very simple to do - I like the "click" test also as it lets you know they are working - with the engine off disconnect each one's electrical connection one at a time and listen for a faint "clink" so you know it is working as required. I've had one stop clicking before and that was the problem.

The "fuel cutoff solenoids" or "idle solenoids" (depending on your terminology!) are energized to allow fuel for the idle circuits; when the key is turned off they shut off the flow of fuel to prevent "dieseling" (running without spark. Those of us old enough can remember American Iron that kept running, roughly, with the key turned off, often for a long time). Since the solenoids only change the fuel flow in the idle circuits, the engine will run fine at higher rpms even if they are not powered. They are always energized when the key is on.

With the key on (and the engine not running) you can remove each solenoid lead and you should hear a definite click as you replace the lead. They are powered with 24V. The is the simple test to check if all four solenoids are operating. Just one bad solenoid (or one disconnected lead) will result in very poor, almost non-existent idle. I once drove my truck home from a shop and while on the freeway, one of the leads fell off. I didn't know it until I came to the end of the off ramp when it would not idle at all. Fortunately, I realized what the problem was and got the solenoid wire back on without removing the doghouse and it ran fine after that.

Let us know what you find.

kdiqq wrote:Oh awesome! I had no idea the fuel cutoff solenoids did that!

I always thought it was for cutting fuel when the keys turns off... I guess I shouldn't interpret literally.

The 'functional' condition is +24V when ignition on? Do they turn off above idle or always on when ignition is on?

They do cut off the fuel when the key is turned off but only the fuel in the idle circuit of the carb is affected. With the key in the on position there should always be 24V to each solenoid.

One of the wire leads may have fallen off or a solenoid failed while you were driving around but you wouldn't feel any effect until the engine dropped back down to idle speed.

Edit: Oops, Jim provided a better explanation while I was posting.

Yall don't think this has something to do with it?

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Might.

Paul C's post above points to the #10 breaker. Your photo seems to show a bad fuse at #8. Since your truck has fuses rather than breakers, perhaps things are on different circuits?

What happens when you replace that fuse? Do you get 24v to the solenoids?

My fuse box actually says this is the fuse for the idle cutoff.

I meant that as a joke actually, bad humor.

I'm almost certain it's my wiper causing issues, it hasn't been working well at all and today was rainy.

I have no idea who said 'For breaker 8, lets do the air blower.... wiper motor... oh, and those idle cutoff valves for the carbs!'

With the recent release of the Austrian army Pinzes,
this is a good time to ask ALL gas Pinz owners to add their Pinz to their sig line AND whether it is an Austrian or Swiss spec Pinz.
Americans assume everyone has a Swiss Pinz, when in actuality only approx 1/3 of all gas Pinzes made were Swiss spec'ed.

Just because you know what you have, doesn't mean the other guy does.

But how will I add to the mystery of my Pinz with it's unique top and doors?!

Hi Paul,
Sorry, when I read your post "The fuel cutoff solenoids actually just turn off the fuel flow for idling" I was thinking that you were saying that the fuel is cut off DURING idling. My error, I see now that you meant they turn off the idling fuel. You are correct, I just interpreted your wording wrong.

All good ideas here, just waiting to find out exactly what was wrong!