I am trying to figure out a locker light issue.
None of the lights go on when lever is pulled. I checked the obvious. I have constant power to all bulbs via a green wire. The connector inside the engine compartment is tight and clean.
I was looking at the wiring diagram and am I correct is guessing that the switches at the lockers (behind covers single lead coming out) just complete a ground when activated (single wire back to indicator light) ?
Making myself nuts with this one as I can't see a reason for all the lights to fail at the same time.
Thanks,
4x4 and locker lights
Moderator: TechMOGogy
4x4 and locker lights
Tim Nelson
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
It could be a bad breaker.
I had a similar problem not too long ago and replacing the breaker fixed the problem.
If that's not it, try this thread on the forum:
viewtopic.php?t=2048
Good luck!
I had a similar problem not too long ago and replacing the breaker fixed the problem.
If that's not it, try this thread on the forum:
viewtopic.php?t=2048
Good luck!
~ TW ~
'73 710K
'73 710K
-
lindenengineering
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
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Guys
There is a wire "break point" placed about 12" up stream of each locker electrical cover plate. Its a plastic sleeve with a brass double ended male connector inside.
The rear locker is the easiest to get at so use it for your "test starters".
Since the system is permanently powered from breaker #12 (bottom right usually) and wired on a daisy chain system through the bulb circuits merely pulling the wire out of the previously mentioned sleeve and grounding it will put the rear locker light on if continuity and power feed are a constant. If it doesn't light up go up stream to investigate.
If it does light then the system is good to the break point hence investigate downstream at the locker mechanism and/or hydraulic actuation.
Obviously you can test all three circuits by pulling apart the break point and grounding down with an assistant observing the warning lamp.
Here's a practical illustration of one I repaired last Saturday for a customer.
1) Vehicle has no lights on when actuated.
2) Power verified to each bulb socket and power out to chasssis feed.
3) Pull rear locker break apart ground down no illumination.
4) Go back to bulb socket and examine closely, intermitent connection in the holder bad, clean and replace bulb. light now on PERMANENTLY.
5) Remove hydro cylinder observe plunger-seized. free of plunger rear locker now working. light goes on and off.
6) Investigate 4wd locker at break point, burned from exhaust, remake connection, ground down for verification of system reconnect, light operational.
Lastly find front locker break point, oh hello wire seperated clean reconnect and it works too.
Road test truck, bill customer.
Tim I can understand your frustration; Just go one circuit at a time until you trace the problem.
Regards
Dennis
There is a wire "break point" placed about 12" up stream of each locker electrical cover plate. Its a plastic sleeve with a brass double ended male connector inside.
The rear locker is the easiest to get at so use it for your "test starters".
Since the system is permanently powered from breaker #12 (bottom right usually) and wired on a daisy chain system through the bulb circuits merely pulling the wire out of the previously mentioned sleeve and grounding it will put the rear locker light on if continuity and power feed are a constant. If it doesn't light up go up stream to investigate.
If it does light then the system is good to the break point hence investigate downstream at the locker mechanism and/or hydraulic actuation.
Obviously you can test all three circuits by pulling apart the break point and grounding down with an assistant observing the warning lamp.
Here's a practical illustration of one I repaired last Saturday for a customer.
1) Vehicle has no lights on when actuated.
2) Power verified to each bulb socket and power out to chasssis feed.
3) Pull rear locker break apart ground down no illumination.
4) Go back to bulb socket and examine closely, intermitent connection in the holder bad, clean and replace bulb. light now on PERMANENTLY.
5) Remove hydro cylinder observe plunger-seized. free of plunger rear locker now working. light goes on and off.
6) Investigate 4wd locker at break point, burned from exhaust, remake connection, ground down for verification of system reconnect, light operational.
Lastly find front locker break point, oh hello wire seperated clean reconnect and it works too.
Road test truck, bill customer.
Tim I can understand your frustration; Just go one circuit at a time until you trace the problem.
Regards
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
Will check thanks
Thanks Dennis. I will run the ground checks soon and post the results.
Ciao,
Tim
Ciao,
Tim
Tim Nelson
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
Bad at switch or selector pin issue??
Ok I figured out that I have no ground at the switch in the rear locker. I used a test light to create a ground but the switch is obviously not working.
So my next question. Is this a fix and repair or a replace thing? Can I pull the switch without draining the rear diff? Is it possible for the selector pin to the switch to not be moving although the rear locker is engaging?
I still have to check the main 4x4 and the front locker.........................
Thanks for any help you all got. I hate to bug Jim L. all the time lol
So my next question. Is this a fix and repair or a replace thing? Can I pull the switch without draining the rear diff? Is it possible for the selector pin to the switch to not be moving although the rear locker is engaging?
I still have to check the main 4x4 and the front locker.........................
Thanks for any help you all got. I hate to bug Jim L. all the time lol
Tim Nelson
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
I feel stupid!
Ok Kept digging around and found all the problems.
First, I thought that all the lights being out was the case. It was actually only two. Both were found to be bad at the connections that Dennis said were a few inches out from the switch. Knowing that the locker and 4x4 switches only create a ground helped a lot. Knowing about the connectors was a big bonus. All were pretty corroded two were very corroded and very covered in dirt and gunk. I would have missed them if Dennis had not said something.
Thanks Dennis.
First, I thought that all the lights being out was the case. It was actually only two. Both were found to be bad at the connections that Dennis said were a few inches out from the switch. Knowing that the locker and 4x4 switches only create a ground helped a lot. Knowing about the connectors was a big bonus. All were pretty corroded two were very corroded and very covered in dirt and gunk. I would have missed them if Dennis had not said something.
Thanks Dennis.
Tim Nelson
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
I feel stupid!
Ok Kept digging around and found all the problems.
First, I thought that all the lights being out was the case. It was actually only two. Both were found to be bad at the connections that Dennis said were a few inches out from the switch. Knowing that the locker and 4x4 switches only create a ground helped a lot. Knowing about the connectors was a big bonus. All were pretty corroded two were very corroded and very covered in dirt and gunk. I would have missed them if Dennis had not said something.
Thanks Dennis.
First, I thought that all the lights being out was the case. It was actually only two. Both were found to be bad at the connections that Dennis said were a few inches out from the switch. Knowing that the locker and 4x4 switches only create a ground helped a lot. Knowing about the connectors was a big bonus. All were pretty corroded two were very corroded and very covered in dirt and gunk. I would have missed them if Dennis had not said something.
Thanks Dennis.
Tim Nelson
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"
1972 710m
"ParaPinz"