Flex pipe upgrade welding

Kiwibru · Post by **Kiwibru** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:29 am

The question is... for those of you who have upgraded using the flex pipe upgrade sold by EI. Did you pull off the exhaust headers one at a time? If so did you have any issues with stubborn stud inserts or nuts?

Or, did you get the welding done without the exhaust headers being removed? If so, any issues related to doing it this way?
I am slowly gathering all the necessary tid-bit parts for this and want to be ready!
TIA
Bruce

pcolette · Post by **pcolette** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:22 pm

Hi Bruce,

I can't speak for the EI kit as I bought from SAV, though I think they are almost the same product.
I don't think that you could just weld it in as the length of the flex kit, even fully collapsed, requires that either the headers or the heat exchanger be loosened or removed to fit the flex kit in place.
I removed the headers and therein began the headaches. Two of the studs snapped, 1 had to be drilled out and gently re-tapped and the other we were able to remove with a stud remover from Klann Tools. Of course the one that had to be re-tapped was the second most inaccessible stud there is. I think if we had more thoroughly heated the nuts before trying to remove we would have had better luck - live and learn. Anyway, I suggest having a couple of spare studs and nuts (and the special washers) on hand when you start.

I used an angle grinder to remove the welded flanges from the headers. They are only welded along one side so it is not too bad, just time consuming.

Soak the bolts on the heat exchanger with PB Blaster (not WD-40) and let them soak a while. They were easy to remove and new bolts come with the kit.

Re-installation was a snap though a second set of hands did help considerably.

Overall I'm very happy with the results. Much less engine noise in the cab and the engine runs smoother.

Hope this helps.

Paul

mjnims · Post by **mjnims** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:39 pm

like wise I got the flex kit from SAV. The removal of the stop rings was the only real pain. I did break one of the studs removing the headers but it was easy to get out. Removing them is the only real way to make sure the welds are good and seal properly. This is not as difficult as it appears just takes time. Which ever flex system you use it is much better than the stock setup and you will be pleased with the results.

Wayne Roberts · Post by **Wayne Roberts** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:42 pm

I had my kit installed at a local muffler shop and they did not pull the headers. They removed the muffler (replacing any way) and then just slid the heat exchanger back. They did cut the flanges of the header off to allow the new part to slip over. It was tight but it did slip into place. Much needed improvment over the stock set up. I am having tire clearance issues with the way that the tail pipe was designed but am overall happy with the kit. Hope that it helps,

Wayne

milesdzyn · Post by **milesdzyn** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:48 pm

For you guys that are welding the flex adapter to the headers, you may want to consider a different form of attachment. Cutting a slot and using a muffler clamp. I only suggest this to more closely mimic the original design. If the muffler or heat exchanger is hit the original design will slide and give to avoid damage to the header pipes, very pricey header pipes at that. As long as you don't tighten the muffler clamp to tightly, and use exhaust assembly paste, it should slide off before damaging the header pipes. Just a thought, the ring design was used for a reason.

For those retaining the original design the Exhaust Assembly Paste for sealing the rings can be found here...at bottom of page.

http://www.autotech.com/catalog/exhsys.htm

Miles

Kiwibru · Post by **Kiwibru** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:21 pm

Great feed back guys, I appreciate it. I found a great shop that was recommended by my local friend who does auto restoration work (just not welding exhausts, etc.) and I am going to let them look at the job and replacement parts and new muffler. They have done lots of "esoteric" vehicles so I am going to see what they recommend. I am going to get some spare studs just in case they want to go the header removal way.
Bruce

mjnims · Post by **mjnims** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:38 pm

I dno't understand why everyone seems to think the headers are expensive. I found an exhuast system shop that can remake the headers fairly reasonably. I would be willing to bet that most exhaust system shops can remake the headers, they are nothing special and very easy to copy.

MarkPinz · Post by **MarkPinz** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:28 am

Had posted this before the site hacking: Went with a flex setup that Jim Laguardia had been using as EI was out of stock & SAV wasn't offering the new parts yet. Decided to have the headers ceramic coated (Jet-Hot) while everything was apart & replaced all the studs except the very forward #1 wouldn't budge. Originally had used high temp silicone to seal the flex connections but this soon started leaking. The generic exhaust flex tube started to rust through as well. Replaced the flex & resealed everything with Wurth exhaust paste as mentioned above with great results been working fine since last summer. This flex setup is inexpensive & easy to obtain parts from local parts stores. Jim had supplied flange & tubing connections to heat exchanger which I welded together.

Kiwibru · Post by **Kiwibru** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:48 am

Nice pipes! I was also thinking along these lines but am going to wait until I talk to the shop guys to see what they can do and for how much. My OEM pipes really are looking like 32 year old rust buckets. I also recognize that I live an area that has high humidity for 10 months out of the year and is near the ocean! The "C" word...

todds112 · Post by **todds112** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 4:43 pm

Can someone explain to me the advantage of switching to the flex system? I did notice the other day I could see exhaust leaking out of both ends of the short pipes in front of the heat exchanger. Didn't really sound loud or anything. Just wondering why this is an "upgrade".

PS: That Ceramic Coat looks awesome on the headers.

Wayne Roberts · Post by **Wayne Roberts** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:08 pm

The factory joint uses rings (like piston rings) to seal the exhaust from leaking. They fail often resulting in exhaust smell in the cabin and excessive noise. When mine failed it was like having straight pipes. The EI kit uses braided steel hose and the SAV kit uses SS flex hose. There are pro's and cons to both styles but both are way better than stock. I bought the whole kit from EI as my muffler had rusted a large hole in the bottom. I would not waste my time repairing the factory joint for the cost involved.

pcolette · Post by **pcolette** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:12 pm

Ditto on what Wayne said about the exhaust smell and noise. At idle the noise is not bad but while cruising the flex connector really made a difference. Another reason to change is that when the rings leak they affect the amount of back pressure which in turn affects how well the engine runs. My engine idles and runs much smoother since the change,

Paul

todds112 · Post by **todds112** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 10:46 pm

Gotcha. Thx.

Kiwibru · Post by **Kiwibru** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:52 pm

I've also been thinking about what Miles said above and considering the difference in the two "flex" connectors I think the EI unit would more closely work the way the stock set up does if the heat exchanger and or muffler takes a hit off-road.
Also considering I need a new muffler too the EI set up was a little less money and tucks up into the frame better from the looks of it.