I knew it couldn't be easy

[andy]

Okay, I got my rebound strap from SAV today. Does anybody have any suggestions on how I can remove the bolt from the "wheel drive?" The upper bolt came out easily from the body.

I think the bottom one was lock tited in and I don't have a clue on how to break it. The last thing I want is to round off the bolt. I don't have anything to use as a cheater on the wrench even if I had room to get it under the truck. Thanks in advance for any pointers.

Andy
Comstock, TX
710M

[Oberon]

If it were me, I would spray it with a good penetrating oil, maybe its just siezed up. I don't think that they would loctite one and not the other. I use Kroil(Its pretty expensive but I can get a little from work). If that doesn't work, put a little heat to it. If you round the bolt, just cut it off and replace it.
Just my $0.02
Spence

[andy]

The top one rotated freely even though the nut was tight on the bolt. I'm only guessing they locktited the bottom one because that's what the instructions say. It says nothing about locktite on the top. I'll respray it and probably end up paying to get it heated and taken out. Very frustrating for a little job even I should be able to do. Thanks for the reply.

Andy

[M Wehrman]

Heat won't hurt but only the surrounding area and not the bolt. I fail to believe you can round off that bolt........
Mark

[lindenengineering]

Andy
Just out of interest what are you using to loosen the bolt?

In most cases to prevent sheer the bolt is ----Well Tight!!
You will need a 24mm 1/2" drive quality socket (can get by with 15/16" A/F) and a 3' knuckle bar to "crack it loose. Some 1/2" air guns will make short work of the job if they are "pro" quality, others including hand tools of lesser variety might just "tickle" the bolt with no result.
Dennis

[andy]

I was using the 24 mm open end that came with the truck. I was hoping to use a cheater for leverage, but with the truck on the ground there isn't enough room. When I put pressure on the wrench the truck was rocking forward a little and my legs were coming off the ground. That's how tight it was. This is the universe's way of reenforcing in me that I have a reverse Midas touch when it comes to mechanical things. I will endeavor to try your suggestions and see if I can put at least a dent in this curse. Thanks for the help.

Andy

[lindenengineering]

Andy
Yes you will need a socket & bar.

Yes here's "a friendly" on doubling up wrenches for more leverage. One of our best apprentices had to have stitches in his hand the other for doing just what you have been doing and it all slipped/broke up.

I was warned about it as a boy years ago, when the Master I worked with would say; after I rebuked him for doing what I was told not to do with wrenches (spanners). The immediate reaction was "Here ol' butt, don't do as I duh do, do as I duh tell yah--Alright lad!

I can still remember his West of England tones wringing in my ears 40 years since.
Best of luck
Dennis

[andy]

Thanks all. I decided to risk driving it on the highway and went to the tire shop where I buy my yearly set of tires for the F250 and asked if he'd do me a favor and use his impact drill to break the nut free. Not even 10 minutes later the new one is on and I'm back on way out to the boondocks. Dennis, I'm painfully aware of how deeply one can remove skin from their body when a wrench slips. It can happen even on electronic equipment. Thank you all so much for the suggestions and help.

Andy

[milesdzyn]

When I have to bust out drive lines I use my legs not my arms. Put the wrench in a position so you can apply pressure with your foot from below with your back on the ground, use your hands to secure yourself so you don't move to much and press slow and steady with your feet and legs. They are a lot stronger than your arms. Of course don't do this if you have any back problems.

Miles

[andy]

Miles, I really hadn't though of using my legs but I'll remember it, because I'm pretty sure there will be a next time. BTW, the pictures you have up are really great.

Andy