Synthetic oil in the Pinz

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:13 pm

Yes, you can use Locas additives, but do not use too much or the viscosity may cause hard shifting when cold. Basically if you just keep everything full, it will be fine and last a long time.

ms1223 · Post by **ms1223** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:18 am

I changed to synthetic motor oil when I first purchased my 710M. Bad mistake. The motor started leaking quite a bit. Changed back to dino oil and it stoped leaking, just a drip now.
As far as oil pan heaters go, I have had great success with the Proheat brand.
I had one on a diesel generator(air cooled) and on my diesel back hoe. Never had a problem starting either unit when it was plugged in.
I had 15/40 Shell Rotella in both and they started in single digits temps. with the heater on all night.

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:29 am

ms1223 Read Myth #2http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resou ... nthoil.htm

ms1223 · Post by **ms1223** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:44 am

I believe the article. I have engine drips with dino oil. It was running out with synthetic.

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:58 am

I guess if you were on a long trip away from any part stores it would be beter to run dino oil, if you develope a small leak you will loose the syn oil faster than the dino.

todds112 · Post by **todds112** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:08 am

I am still switching over to the cheap stuff. As I swap out fluids. I did notice a few "seeps" go away after switching to non-synthetics.

The synthetic stuff is just too darn expensive. It's nice too if you are fueling up and notice you're a quart down to just run in the store and grab a quart. You can always find Pennzoil 5w-30 anywhere.

I bought the big container of Sta-Lube gear lube at NAPA. It is rated GL4. I heard some say not to use multi-viscosity stuff in the tranny, but I wanted to keep it simple and use the same stuff in all the assemblies. So far it works great, no difference in noise. Gear box shifts great even in really cold conditions. I have 2 more wheel assemblies and the transfer case to do yet.

Jerbearyukon · Post by **Jerbearyukon** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:53 am

Well the way I look at it - I live in the cold - minus 50 today with the windchill

(bless global warming

) and if synthetic will help my vehicle out - then it gets it. If I have a leak - well I get it fixed so it doesn't.

I always carry extra oil anyway so I shouldn't have trouble unless it's a bad leak. They are putting it in and will test drive it for 3 days prior to my arrival and then check for leaks for me.

Price of synthetic or repairs they seem to balance out, but I like the NO repairs better.

They said she's in GREAT shape. They are putting the bumper and winch on today and tires tomorrow.

When I get down there it's off to KC and then onto Golden where Dennis can do his thing and give her another check over.

JB

ms1223 · Post by **ms1223** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:15 pm

JB, try one of these:

http://www.engineheaters.com/cgibin/sto ... ineheaters

When it's cold here in Illinois, after I start up the truck, I put the transfer case in neutral and run the tranny in second to warm her up. Seems to help.

Jerbearyukon · Post by **Jerbearyukon** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 2:39 pm

what is that thing

...can't tell from the pics

JB

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 3:42 pm

If I have a leak - well I get it fixed so it doesn't.

Pretty much how i feel.

Kiwibru · Post by **Kiwibru** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:08 pm

I'm good with most of what the article says except for myth #1. If any of you run synthetic (we do in all the farm trucks and tractor) you are hours ahead (miles if measured) if you get an oil analysis done at strategically timed intervals. I have been amazed how a good synthetic can keep going with proper filtration and regular analysis. If the results are good why drain it? If the specific contaminants do show up at an alarm level, sure drain it out! If the additives measure up to the standards and show residual life, why change it?
Many farm vehicles get low miles so with this process we can go three years with proper monitoring. That makes the stuff worth it's weight in my economic outlook. A $16.00 oil test saves me about $60 U.S. each time I do it and the lab says continued use is OK. If my Pinz had a tight new engine I would probably run a synthetic in it but I don't...only the tranny gets that! MHO.

Jerbearyukon · Post by **Jerbearyukon** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:16 pm

I guess I will have to see how she is. SHe only has 22,00 miles but who knows..only trying it will show us.

JB

ms1223 · Post by **ms1223** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:45 am

These are oil pan heaters, that work well on air cooled motors.

http://www.engineheaters.com

undysworld · Post by **undysworld** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:32 pm

Sorry for chiming in late here.... Just another consideration.

At the treffen a few years back, several of us went up to Holy Cross. I managed to punch in the oil pan plug on a rock, and lost all my oil. I had been running synthetic. We all pooled our oil and refilled it, after repairing the damage. Everybody else had dino oil, so that's what went into my engine.

As I understand things, you're not supposed to mix synth oil with dino oil. Dino oil is much more widely available than synthetic, especially miles up a trail.

Synthetic seems attractive, and I use it in other vehicles, but I've gone back to dino oil for my Pinz.