The project 710K Begins.

[Alaskantinbender]

Here are some of my wiring notes that might help you. Also I've attached a .PDF of the color wiring schematic I've used on my K.
Also, I modified the original taillights to be US standard and support dual-filament bulbs.
I found these https://a.co/d/0ai9mbex to make excellent back-up lights. No holes need be drilled, and you just replace the factory reflectors. Wire in a reverse switch to the transmission with a resistor for reverse lights, and a bypass switch for full power for trail use.

WOW, tremendous information. Lots of great ideas and data. It will be very useful as I get more into the project.
Very much appreciated.

Thanx

[Alaskantinbender]

Fooling around today with a rattle can paint job while waiting for more parts to arrive.

[Mr Zero]

Fooling around today with a rattle can paint job while waiting for more parts to arrive.

That paint scheme looks vaguely familiar ... I like it!

[Alaskantinbender]

It's all your fault.
The pictures of completely overhauling/rebuilding your truck are a great inspiration. Terrific job (including the paint job)

Fooling around today with a rattle can paint job while waiting for more parts to arrive.

That paint scheme looks vaguely familiar ... I like it!

[Mr Zero]

It's all your fault.
The pictures of completely overhauling/rebuilding your truck are a great inspiration. Terrific job (including the paint job)

Thanks for the compliment. I had a lot of help from some of the most informed and experienced people on this forum, and much of the body modification inspiration, including the paint scheme, was gleaned from Ex-Road.ru. Here's some of their work that inspired me (https://photos.app.goo.gl/9kcNbMnhxWSS2eRf1).

[Alaskantinbender]

Thats enough painting for now. My brake parts are here.

[compunerdy]

Where would that jack even work on a 710? Nowhere from the sides that I can think of, the rear bumper maybe. I would think the front bumper sits up too high. Serious question as I think it looks cool but wondering how practical it is.

EDIT.. Are the wheel wells strong enough to lift there?

[Mr Zero]

Where would that jack even work on a 710? Nowhere from the sides that I can think of, the rear bumper maybe. I would think the front bumper sits up too high. Serious question as I think it looks cool but wondering how practical it is.

EDIT.. Are the wheel wells strong enough to lift there?

The Hi-Lift can be used at the front and rear bumpers, but do go into it aware that slippage is the thing to watch for. On a Pinz, that’s less a theoretical concern than a practical one.

If you intend to rely on it, I’d recommend having a channel welded to the underside of the bumper near both ends to give the jack tongue a more positive purchase point. That makes the whole exercise a good bit less sketchy.

That said, I personally would not look at a Hi-Lift as a good maintenance-type lifting solution for the Pinzgauer, and I would not use it in the wheel wells. For routine service, the factory bottle jack or something similar is generally a better and safer way to get the truck in the air.

Where the Hi-Lift makes sense is as a recovery tool for odd circumstances — the sort of situation where you need a little lift, shove, or repositioning in the field and are working with what you have.

[Alaskantinbender]

I totally agree. I have never used it to change a tire. But many times over the years have used it as a recovery tool, repositioning the truck or (slowly) as a manual winch.

Where the Hi-Lift makes sense is as a recovery tool for odd circumstances — the sort of situation where you need a little lift, shove, or repositioning in the field and are working with what you have.

[Alaskantinbender]

My 4x4 lever has been fine for the last several days, until now; it won't move up to the unlock position. Seems strange as it's a hydraulic actuator and there shouldn't be anything mechanical to restrict its upward movement. Also, my front locker lever is stuck in the "Up" position. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with a frozen piston. The truck has been in pieces and not used for over 10 years. Rebuilding the locker array might just have moved up on my priority list.

[rmel]

Typically the front Master and Slave are the first to have engagement/release issues
as it is used the least. If your 4x4 is stuck engaged they probably all need rebuilding.

Disconnect the Hydraulic lines from the Banjo connection. Far easier to reconnect.
Use new crush washers. You should be able to find a Metric copper crush washer
assortment kit with the proper size or UXCELL will have them ala AMZN or McMasters.

SAV does have a Master rebuild kit. I can tell you getting the rear piston seal on is a PITA.
Get yourself some Silicone dielectric oil for re-assembly. You will likely see residual debris
on the cylinder wall from the outermost seal which needs to be removed. Use a kitchen
non-scratch Scotch-Brite pad. The cylinders are Nickle platted and hopefully not pitted.

Getting the cylinders out is fun too. I've used the "Kinetic Energy" approach. Straddle the
Master flange between two blocks of wood and slam down, piston will come out eventually.

If you plan on rebuilding the Slaves (at least do the Front locker slave), there are only seals
available, pistons are no longer available. If the Pistons are pitted on the Hydraulic fluid side
you kind'a SOL. There are replacement Slaves, they are not Banjo connected so there will
be a little manipulating to get the line connected. If the Piston is pitted but only on the
Witches hat side, use a 1200 grit or so Emery to remove any sharp edges, might save that
piston for re-use. I've been lucky so far with my pistons.

I have successful used a Motive Brake Bleeder on the locker reservoir with a Metric adapter
but use a very low pressure <5psi.

[Alaskantinbender]

Terrific write-up, very helpful. Thank you.

Typically the front Master and Slave are the first to have engagement/release issues
as it is used the least. If your 4x4 is stuck engaged they probably all need rebuilding.

Disconnect the Hydraulic lines from the Banjo connection. Far easier to reconnect.
Use new crush washers. You should be able to find a Metric copper crush washer
assortment kit with the proper size or UXCELL will have them ala AMZN or McMasters.

SAV does have a Master rebuild kit. I can tell you getting the rear piston seal on is a PITA.
Get yourself some Silicone dielectric oil for re-assembly. You will likely see residual debris
on the cylinder wall from the outermost seal which needs to be removed. Use a kitchen
non-scratch Scotch-Brite pad. The cylinders are Nickle platted and hopefully not pitted.

Getting the cylinders out is fun too. I've used the "Kinetic Energy" approach. Straddle the
Master flange between two blocks of wood and slam down, piston will come out eventually.

If you plan on rebuilding the Slaves (at least do the Front locker slave), there are only seals
available, pistons are no longer available. If the Pistons are pitted on the Hydraulic fluid side
you kind'a SOL. There are replacement Slaves, they are not Banjo connected so there will
be a little manipulating to get the line connected. If the Piston is pitted but only on the
Witches hat side, use a 1200 grit or so Emery to remove any sharp edges, might save that
piston for re-use. I've been lucky so far with my pistons.

I have successful used a Motive Brake Bleeder on the locker reservoir with a Metric adapter
but use a very low pressure <5psi.