THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Dave,

Look at #27 in the diagram above. I called 'em "spider gears", the book calls them pinion gears. But in either event, it's the part of the differential which allows both wheels to be driven on-road without them binding up on turns. I'm pretty sure it's the only bolt like that in there.

To my knowledge, the first step is to pull the differential from the truck. The book gives a good step-by-step to follow. Then open up the case and it's all easy to see how it works. (It's amazing in there!)

You'll likely need some tools, so ask advice as needed. It's do-able.

I have an Execution II kit here at home still in the box. I checked the contents, and sure enough the bolt you show is from the Execution II upgrade. I have that installed in my rear differential, so I'm going to check the tightness of that bolt. I've heard that it will line up with the drain hole, so all I'll need is the proper allen wrench.

undysworld wrote:Dave,

Look at #27 in the diagram above. I called 'em "spider gears", the book calls them pinion gears. But in either event, it's the part of the differential which allows both wheels to be driven on-road without them binding up on turns. I'm pretty sure it's the only bolt like that in there.

To my knowledge, the first step is to pull the differential from the truck. The book gives a good step-by-step to follow. Then open up the case and it's all easy to see how it works. (It's amazing in there!)

You'll likely need some tools, so ask advice as needed. It's do-able.

Thanks for the help to this point, much appreciated! I'll be asking for help I'm sure, so stay tuned......

tx Dave

pinzinator wrote:I have an Execution II kit here at home still in the box. I checked the contents, and sure enough the bolt you show is from the Execution II upgrade. I have that installed in my rear differential, so I'm going to check the tightness of that bolt. I've heard that it will line up with the drain hole, so all I'll need is the proper allen wrench.

Very interesting, can you tell me what lenght that bolt is? This could partially explain why my pinions are still rotating (meaning it's not necessarily #32 in the earlier diagram).

I'll have to look closer through the drain hole and see if I can line up the possible broken bolt location.........Hmmmmmmm...

I'm not too sure what gears you're looking at and referring to here:

This could partially explain why my pinions are still rotating (meaning it's not necessarily #32 in the earlier diagram).

I find the parts diagram to be slightly confusing, name-wise. Parts 6 & 21 are called "ring and pinion gears", and there is one set per axle. The parts collectively referred to as 27 together with parts 18 are called pinion and bevel gears, but I'd call the whole assembly the spider-gear assembly. My terminology may be inaccurate, but this spider-gear assembly works to keep both wheels driven around a corner while allowing the outer tire to rotate faster than the inner tire. When the differential is locked, these spider-gears do not move within themselves, however the shaft they are on still spins.

when jacked up, it appears to be locked, both front wheels travel in the same direction.....

Assuming your front locker is not locked, yet both front wheels turn the same direction when either one is turned, then I'd think it's pretty certain that something has gone wrong within the spider-gear assembly.

That's my guess anyway.

BTW, where was the puddle of gear lube you mentioned earlier appear to have come from?

I get your logic on the mysteriously locked front wheels. Something is amiss for sure.

The puddle was located in the very front seemingly behind the steering apparatus somewhere.

Hmm, then perhaps near the speedo drive. I wonder if that somehow got damaged when whatever is broken inside broke.

undysworld wrote:Hmm, then perhaps near the speedo drive. I wonder if that somehow got damaged when whatever is broken inside broke.

Yup, that would be the proper location, so it's possibly involved in this whole mess

It's a crazy rain downpour and mega windy here today, so I probably won't get to the Pinz until tomorrow, when the ever trustworthy weatherman says it's going to be sunny and nice...hope so.
If the wind dies down, I'll pop open the garage and do some teardown.....

The bolt shaft is 3 1/8" long. This does not include the head of the bolt.

pinzinator wrote:The bolt shaft is 3 1/8" long. This does not include the head of the bolt.

Great, thanks for the specs!

The bolt shaft is 3 1/8" long. This does not include the head of the bolt.

That's funny, the Spare Parts Manual lists it as 80mm

Seriously it's a M10 X 80 - 12.9 Grade

Profpinz wrote:

The bolt shaft is 3 1/8" long. This does not include the head of the bolt.

That's funny, the Spare Parts Manual lists it as 80mm

Seriously it's a M10 X 80 - 12.9 Grade

That's what Karl thought it was too......I will definately trust your collective expertise.....and, well, yours is proven so that helps too...

Just make sure you get the right grade bolt!
There is 8 and 10 Grade, but you want 12 Grade for this particular application.

Profpinz wrote:Just make sure you get the right grade bolt!
There is 8 and 10 Grade, but you want 12 Grade for this particular application.

Will do. I really appreciate all this help. Honestly compared to any other forum I have belonged to, the pinz folks are far more helpful and genuine than all combined!

Here are the hard facts:
Both versions use an allen head bolt, the EX2 uses a captive nut on the bolt while early(ex1) bolts threaded into the lower pin halve itself.
The shorter bolt is EX1.
Your spider(bevel gears) set pin has separated has exploded, the pin bore hole in the pinion shaft may be damaged (they are press fit then secured with bolt)as well as a few teeth on the ring and pinions.
I have seen this a few times and it was never a "cheap fix". When the pin comes loose all the parts are flung into/onto the ring and pinion gears usually resulting in lots parts that become "shop art"
Pull the portals off the diff before diss-assembling or you will make the job much more difficult, most of the time this failure cracks the diff case.
So first question is how much is the replacement diff going to cost as it is unlikely to repair it for less than replacement(experience talking here)?
I have plenty of diff pictures posted for guidance should it be repairable