THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

My son was kind enough to get this for me for Christmas, finally had time to install today. Yes, it is from China, but it works pretty slick. I used a Rigid light wiring harness, also pretty slick. Took it out on the ridge tonight, and YIKES! The problem is, you get used to seeing everything, and then you go back to regular headlights and it's a bit of a letdown.....

Hello. I have been looking at those also. I saw one of those on a semi, and it was extremely bright. But it was half the size of the one you have. What is it rated for 12 thru 36 volts or was it specifically a 24 volt item. I am looking at installing a set of LED square auxiliary lights for the front also. Did you run this off of a relay? If so, where did you tap the power for the relay and the hot for the lights? Did you run a new hot lead off of the batteries? Can you show me a picture of your dash where you installed the light switch? Where did you get the wiring harness? I was going to make my own but if you got something reasonable, that may be the way to go. Thank you. Brian.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXP5YYU/ref ... 615T&psc=1


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D61 ... ge_o01_s00

Brian, above are the products I used, the harness is a no brainier. I used my 12volt converter for power, but the light is rated for up to 30 volts. I installed the switch in the dash panel where the 24v aux. plug was, just needed a little filing to fit snug...

Why not connect straight to 24v? You're drawing more power to drive them from your converter than a direct connect.

Harness relay and light switch rated for 12v......

I have a 24volt relay. Would 24 volt hurt a 12 volt switch if switch is just carrying current to power relay? The relay is doing all of the heavy lifting.


relay :$9
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-965400031-B ... olt+switch

Switch :$ 13
http://www.amazon.com/SUNDELY%C2%AE-LIG ... olt+switch

These are Amazon prices. Ebay is cheaper, yet. But, My concern would be the wiring harness being able to handle 24volt. Is the wire gauge large enough? I like the switch location, Though. And Man, Check out those Lumins. haha. I may go with light bar you have instead of spots.

Don't know about 24/12, the Rigid wiring harness is very stout though...

Hi.
The wire in the harness will probably be fine, there is 1/2 the current at 24V vs 12V.
The relay is also good. If the coil voltage is 24V, run it off of Pinz electrical system (Headlight Switch?)
it is just the coil power, so very small current. Run the lights through the relay contacts back to the battery.

Marty

Ok, that is what I wanted to know. That light bar really looks bright. Have you had it out on a foggy day yet?

Im a big fan of the new tech bars. When on trail or off road, the shadows have no where to hide

At the same wattage you are pulling less amps on a 24v circuit (1/2 the amps) then on a 12v circuit with an equal power demand (power is measures in watts) so... you need heaver wiring to power a load with 12v than 24v. This is why people have less to be concerned about when converting an old car with a 6 volt system to 12 volts as in that case the wiring is already heaver than needed. Converting a all circuits in a Pinzgauer to 12v would require replacing nearly every wire in the truck with heaver (thicker) wires.

general rule of thumb the higher the voltage the thinner the wire, the lower the voltage the thicker the wire, for the same power load in watts.

The chart in this link will show that you can run twice the amps (not to be confused with power (watts) on a wire of the same size at 24v than at 12v.
http://www.rpc.com.au/pdf/Wire_Chart.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/SUNDELY%C2%AE-LIG ... olt+switch
an example is the switch you listed

watts law states "P=IxE" so the load in watts (P) the at a given voltage amperage
Amperage Rating:
12 Volt 20A DC = a maximum wattage for this switch of 240 watts at 12v
24 Volt 10A DC = a maximum wattage for this switch of 240 watts at 24v

One of the things to be aware of when choosing a switch or relay is if it is rated for vac or vdc the ac rated devices contacts may not be resistant to arcing and will fail prematurely.

I almost got one of those for my pinz for Christmas. But my son thought it looked better on his Jeep.

These light bars from eyourlife use CREE LED's, these are very high quality LED's.
CREE is based out of Durham NC. Can't find much on EYOULIFE LLC it's filed in Delaware.

Some of these bars won't need a relay, esp. powered from 24V -- just use a unused 8A breaker,
which should be good up to 150W LED bar with margin (180W is too close for comfort). Just
check the current at 24V and make sure you have margin. That's how I configured my
Spots and Floods -- real simple, Switch and a spare breaker.

ron

After testing multiple LED's to replace our MR-16 and PAR 38's at our Gaming sites, we settled on CREE. Best quality, and we tested everybody's product.

That looks like a great deal for 180W of LEDs at $89 including shipping...

There are a lot of counterfeit "Cree" LED products out there - but many seem to work pretty well. Hopefully this is the real deal.