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One wire is broken on the O2 sensor but no part # on it and no mention of part # on Jims page unless I missed it.
Thx

Hmmm, odd there is no PN# on that O2 sensor.

I'll assume it connects to the ECU, look up in the manual for what O2 sensor that ECU recommends.
Take a PIX of the sensor, it's connector, and how many wires does it have. I think Jim is installing AEM
Stingers, I believe that is a 4-wire Bosch, you can order them from AEM, but the manual should tell you
what your options should be so you could pick one up locally.

In any case, other than knowing what your AFR mix is -- good for tuning your MAP tables, it should not
make any difference if it's working or not as you should have close-loop disabled e.g. NOT using O2 sense.
Another thread on that topic.

Here's an example of a Bosch Lamda O2 sensor (PN# 0258-104-002) for the Stinger 4.
Does your connector look like this one?
On Amazon and eBay, a wide-band sensor they ain't cheap bit over $150.

Mine looks a bit different but I was able to solder the 1 broken wire.
Will post a pick when at a PC

Also post the model number of your ECU -- I'm curious.

ECU is an EMS Stinger

O2 sensor pix

You can see the broken white wire on the right - it had only 1 or 2 strands still attached

What model is that EMS ECU? Got curious and looked at some of their documentation.
Lifted this out below, may or may not apply to your ECU -- depending on model, but
it looks like they also support Innovate's O2 kits.

! EMS Motorsport ECUs have a provision for two O2 sensors -- bla bla bla bla....
! You can use a Bosch 4 Wire wideband sensor (Part Number 0 258 104 002) or
! the Innovate LC1 or LM1 O2 Kit. The Bosch sensor can be wired directly to the
! ECU without calibration. The LC1 kit output voltage must be calibrated to work
! with the Motorsport ECU. Use LM Programmer software to calibrate the LC-1 so
! that the output of the LC1 reads 0.050 volts at 8.0 air-fuel-ratio and 0.950 volts
! at 22 air-fuel-ratio.

Model is Stinger
http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/cms/

Thanks - will be doing some readin'

OK, Stinger 4 series. Then the O2 sensors mentioned should be right.

When you removed your sensor, was it connected directly to the Stinger
or to a smaller unit that then in-turn connected to the Stinger? If so that
may be an Innovate LC1. If it is I believe you can connect a AFR meter to
that unit from Innovate, nice way to see while running if your running rich/lean
in real-time.

Not sure if a solder joint there will work long term - there is probably significant heat coming up the wires from the exhaust and so the solder may melt. I would try it myself but would check it closely after a could of drives for signs of excessive heating. You might consider adding some silicone sealant around the wires for physical support as silicone can take the heat.

A wide band O2 sensor is handy as it can be checked with even just a volt meter to give you an idea of the mixture status.

Please report back.

If it was so hot to melt solder, the wire insulation would have been long gone. It shouldn't hurt to try soldering if you feel up to it...