electrical power loss
Moderator: TechMOGogy
electrical power loss
Noticed that my blinkers seem to be running slower today on the way to work. Once there, I noticed that there did not seem to be enough power to turn the started as quickly as it usually does. Also, my Charge Control lamp does not come on. However, I am not sure it ever did. Head lights seem fine for now, but who knows about later. I will be testing the alternator on Monday. Just wondering if there were any other ideas out there???????????????
Bob
Bob
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Jim LaGuardia

- Posts: 1707
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 3:42 pm
- Location: San Bernardino Ca
- Contact:
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Charles
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 1:01 pm
- Location: Twin Cities, MN and Battleship Island, BC
Gonna second that opinion,
This exact thing happened to me last year. Checked the molex, cleaned/adjusted the spade connectors and all was well.
When it was loose / cruddedup it kinda made the Pinz electrics (wiper, lights, blinkers) work in "slo mo". Also, bad charging.
Crud / wear in the connector is famous for this.
Good luck
This exact thing happened to me last year. Checked the molex, cleaned/adjusted the spade connectors and all was well.
When it was loose / cruddedup it kinda made the Pinz electrics (wiper, lights, blinkers) work in "slo mo". Also, bad charging.
Crud / wear in the connector is famous for this.
Good luck
Best Regards,
Charles
('73 710K)
PS: Keep your stick on the ice
Charles
('73 710K)
PS: Keep your stick on the ice
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lindenengineering
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
- Location: Golden Colorado USA
- Contact:
Gents
That molex connector is the achiles heal of the system especially if you have additional electrical loads over the standard unit.
Our policy at Linden is if the connector shows any signs of corrosion or burning/overheat whatsoever we cut the B+ve (red 'un) wire out of the connector (both sides). Then punch a 3/8ths hole into the tin cover about an inch forward of the connector to accept a grommet. Then we pass a new 10 guage wire with new eyelet from the alternator B+ve terminal thru the grommet to a 12/10 guage disconnect (from Napa) and crimp/solder it to the original Pinz B+x ve wire.
Then there will be no chance of the alternator overheating by trying to punch its "weighty" output through a manky connector.
Dennis
That molex connector is the achiles heal of the system especially if you have additional electrical loads over the standard unit.
Our policy at Linden is if the connector shows any signs of corrosion or burning/overheat whatsoever we cut the B+ve (red 'un) wire out of the connector (both sides). Then punch a 3/8ths hole into the tin cover about an inch forward of the connector to accept a grommet. Then we pass a new 10 guage wire with new eyelet from the alternator B+ve terminal thru the grommet to a 12/10 guage disconnect (from Napa) and crimp/solder it to the original Pinz B+x ve wire.
Then there will be no chance of the alternator overheating by trying to punch its "weighty" output through a manky connector.
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
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Lightningpinz
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:32 pm
- Location: Lakewood, Co
Molex bad!
I have always disliked molex connectors. This summer when I first got my pinz I noticed that the large gauge red wire had been removed from the molex connector and connected with a new male/female spade lug crimp connection. I also noticed that it had been hot enough to melt/burn some of the insulation so I replaced both sides and now all the wires that went through the molex connector are soldered and sealed into a nice mil-spec sealed amphenol circular connector. Ebay is a great source or you can order them from mouser electronics or any big electronics parts distributor. I was actualy kind of surprised that SDP used molex conectors on the Pinz. Over time most of the molex connectors I have seen both tend to corrode and they get very brittle. It may be overkill on my part but all the wiring work I do to my pinz is with military spec silverplated/teflon coated wire and the most waterproof connectors I can get. I have had several bulbs that I thought were bad turn out to just not have a good ground connection. That problem is usualy solved with a dremmel tool and a wire brush. I also was very happy that all my fuel gauge needed was the fuel tank to have a good ground connection restored, it also recieved a dedicated ground from sender to gauge. I am not surprised that after 30 years some connections have corroded or lost ground but I want to be sure if I fix it that it will be good for the next 30 years. There have been plenty of technologies that have come along way since the pinz was designed. I go back and forth with the idea of EFI but I would jump at the chance to switch or upgrade to disk brakes. I doubt if the pinzgauer could have been designed much better than it was for what it was intended for but I am happy to modernize it to keep it the best it can be.
Scottie
Scottie