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Greetings All

Can anyone tell me if there is a way to adjust the sensitivity of my brake light switch? I have adjusted my brakes and the pedal does not depress as far as before and unless braking pretty hard ddoes not activate the brake lights.

Thanks

Sam

the stop lite switch has gotton hard on the inside you need to replace it.

There is no adjustment Sam, it's simply a hydraulic switch.
Just replace it and all should be OK.
An equivalent aircooled VW unit should fit!

BTW, I see there is a 710K in NSW for sale on Ebay ... Do you the guy?

Thanks Guys

I will have a more detailed look tomorrow. Is it located in the master cylinder?

Peter I saw the 710K there too & no I dont know who it is looks pretty tidy though.

Sam

Is it located in the master cylinder?

On the back of the master cylinder!

being a switch screwed into the BACK NEARLY INACCESSIBLE side of the cylinder, i created a bracket to mount a limit switch to a totally accessible area near the brake peddle arm. it's fully easily adjustable, high quality parts and cheap to keep. the spot they put that switch is rediculous - must have been a choice driven by parts they were forced to use.

My brake lights seem to flicker when the pedal is pressed and the brake lights stays on all the time. Fluid level is OK so I pulled the wires off the switch and the lights go out. Figured it was a bad switch???? I checked SWA and the parts manual and found a switch P/N 7101366062, can anyone confrim that this is the right part? Should I be checking for something else for the cause?

Thanks
Scooter

sounds like your switch. it's the same switch used in some vw's. sure sux where they put it.

The brake switch (if original) is the weak link. I had one short thru the switch housing and catch fire! I never really got used to flames coming from under the dash in any vehichle. As said before,the VW brake switch (any V dub shop will have them,under 5 bucks) is the ticket.But it is a bit of a pain to replace.

I found a local parts store that can order one for me. since this sounds like a big mess and fluid all over the place. Do I need to bleed the brakes after swaping out the switch? I figure I will loose some fluid but not all of it.

Thanks
Scooter

It is a very easy and simple job, if done quickly no bleeding is required.
If you do get air, just bleed the line right off the master cylinder.
Usually yoou can pump the pedal 15-20 times and any air will expell to the reservior.

Thanks Jim. This makes it sound much easier.

Scooter

does anyone know what super special wrench could be used to get to that switch? i gave up and made my own limit switch that works off the pedal. works gr8 but i wouldn't mind knowing how to do it stock.

It's called a sensor socket or you can use a short open end wrench.
The hardest part of the job is getting the wires back on. Of course you could always pull the 4 bolts that hold the pedal block assembly to gain a bit of clearance, just don't break a hydraulic line.

thx jim! i'll take a look at one of those sockets. maybe i wont have to remove the whole body tub then.