4x4 won't disengage all the time when I flip the lever

[Jerbearyukon]

So if I have been using 4x4 mode and then I flip the lever up it's takes sometimes MILES before it dis-engages.....the lockers are pretty much instant.

I have tried to read the manuals but can't find anything on it..shows the procedure to lock it in but doesn't say what to do if it doesn't release.

thanks Jer Bear

PS Doing my brakes and clutch on wed night hopefully

[Jerbearyukon]

So it's been engage after moving the lever for 38 kms so far.

Is there a release somewhere that I can do manually?

Jer BEar

[undysworld]

Jerry,

The hydraulic engagement is actuated by a slave cylinder, which is mounted to the central tube, between the front axle and the transfer case, on the passenger side of the vehicle. You'll identify it by the "brake" line and bleeder. It's held on by 2 bolts. When you remove it, be sure not to lose the parts, a spring and a pin, IIRC. (clean and lube the pin when reassembling)

If you remove the slave, and the truck unlocks, that's good, as it means the locking mechanism in front of the transfer case is working ok. (It might take a drive to actually release it, from my experience.)

My guess is that you've got gunk built up in the hydraulic lines, preventing the slave from disengaging.

The master cylinder is behind the locker levers in the dash. Bleeding it is (in theory) the same as bleeding brakes. Suck the master dry with a syringe, or similar, and flush the system with new fluids. This is also in the manuals.

Good luck.

P

[Jerbearyukon]

As always THANKS MY FRIEND......wish you were close we just smoked up a heap of sockeye salmon....would be nice to share some with you

Jer Bear

[Jerbearyukon]

Jim ansd Paul So are these the nuts to loosen and which one bud...sorry but pictures are best for me



or is it this one...it's on the drivers side though



jer

[Jerbearyukon]

so it cleared the problem when I bled the diffs...I loosened the bolts for the filler and the air came out and I did it on the rear too and PRESTO she unlocked..

What now do I look for?

thanks again everyone jer

[milesdzyn]

Jerry, before you go getting ahead of your self check a few easy things.

Is the actuator lever solid after releasing the 4x4 locker, is the locker light still on or off? If the lever is solid the fluid is filling back into the master, if it's floppy the fluid is restricted and it may be the lines are clogged or the springs are weak. There are several springs that assist the hydraulic system. One in the Master, one in the Slave and One in the witches’ hat. Any one of these could attribute to the slow release.

If the Lever/Handle is solid and the light is still on, the problem is most likely in the witches’ hat. Something may be binding or the return spring is weak.

Miles

[undysworld]

Jerry,

The locker slave is what you've got pictured in pic #2. The two bolts remove the slave, the bleeder valve bleeds it. There are 3 of these slaves on the truck. One is directly behind the front axle (I think this is what you've pictured), one is directly behind the rear axle, and the center one which is directly ahead of the transfer case. From your description, your axle differential locks (levers # 2 & 3) are working fine, but the lock which engages the front axle (lever #1) is the problem (correct?). If this is correct, then only the center slave will effect your condition.

Miles,

You're confusing me, but some people think that's a pretty easily accomplished task...

My reason for suggesting removing the slave was to determine whether there was a problem within the "witches hat" area. Removing the slave should allow the locker mechanism to unlock. Not unlocking at that point (assuming stress on the drive train is relieved) would seem to point to a problem within the locker mechanism within the central tube.

The indicator light being "on" indicates that the slave has moved in a manner such that the locker has engaged. The light staying on after the lever is raised means that the slave has not yet retracted (for whatever reason). I don't think it's really indicative of where the problem is, just that there is a problem.

A lever getting solid is an indication that the fluid did not return from the slave up into the master when you raised that lever. The master cylinder piston then took another "gulp" of fluid. Then, when you try to depress the lever again, it cannot, because the slave has already moved as far as it can, thus the master cannot force more fluid down the lines.


So Jerry, which slave/s did you bleed? Is the truck operating normally yet? I'm still betting you had crap in the lines, just because it's a common situation. You should be able to bleed clean fluid through them when they're bled sufficiently. Was it clear?

[Jerbearyukon]

So the lever is SOLID after I put it back (couldn't put it back into lock) and the light stayed on.

So I wasn't sure what to do really so what I did was I went to the front diff and I opened the filler threaded nut that you use to fill the diff with fluid...I also did that to the back one.

That released it for WHATEVER reason.....I will try it tomorrow ok.

We did the breaks tonight and it's great to know how it's done now.

I have to do the clutch and I was wondering if I should replace the rear motor seal while I am doing that.....the reason I asl that is that I have all the clutch parts but I would have to get the rear motor seal.

THanks again for all your help...NICE TO HAVE BRAKES AGAIN though

Jer BEar

[undysworld]

Jerry,

Sorry, I'm stupid. I'm STILL not sure which lever is giving you problems. Is it the left-most lever? (I assume) Or which one?

If it IS the left-most lever, then you need to be working on the slave which is on the passenger side, just ahead of the transfer case. Opening axle differential plugs will not do anything to help. (I'm not too sure why the differential locks would unlock when you opened the filler plug, but...)

I was wondering if I should replace the rear motor seal while I am doing that.

Is it leaking? Do you want to do it "just in case", while you're in here? If yes, then replace it.

[Jerbearyukon]

NO you are not stupid.....it is the left lever for the four wheel drive mode.

The other lockers go in and out with out any trouble. Maybe it was just coincidence that they unlocked then,,,but the lever after you unlock it (typically) would not unlock it and the light would stay on. You also couldn't put it back in (it was pumped up).

So I will have a look today....so what does the slave look like....does it look like pic number two up above?

I am going to attempt the clutch today too....any warnings here.

I have a hoist to work with. I want to change the fluids in the rear diff...I have the 85-140 now.

I also want to change the tranny and the transfer case fluids while I have use of the hoist.

THE SPEEDO is still leaking so I am going to experiment with some different O rings....

ANY CAUTIONS OR TIPS ARE APPRECIATED OK.

Jer BEar

[Jerbearyukon]

so is this the locker for the 4 wheel drive one.





so what do I do wtih it...lossen the bolts and remove it or open the line at the top of it...boy I wqish I had the lingo for this stuff.

Jer Bear

[David Dunn]

Ok Jer
The fitting on top of the actuator is the bleeding valve. In the simplest way to explain: Remove the rubber cap on the valve and install a rubber tube ( clear is best) onto it and run the other end into a cup with brake fluid in it ( this is so you don't get air back up into the line).
Now turn the lever down to pump fluid into he line , then crack open the bleeder valve and watch for air or fluid ( hopefully only fluid), shut the valve , THEN return the lever to the up position ( or you'll pump old fluid or air back into the slave). this is best for two people to do. This is all done with single swings of the lever, not pumping. There are "fancier tools" for doing this, but you don't need them. This basically the same way to bleed the brakes orclutch on the Pinz.

Also, when you are driving and return from 4x4 or lockers and they do not disingage, the drivetrain may be wound up... a simple stopping and either backing up or turning for the right to left may relieve the pressure and unlock them while backing.

[Jerbearyukon]

so I gotter done..thanks Paul and others.

I will do a play by play incase there are others that have the same problem with this stuff as I do....for the rest I AM JUST PLAIN SORRY

TO FIX IT:

I had to bleed the system.....the bleeder was plugged so I had to remove it first.



Then I got a bottle and fashioned a 1`/4" hose to it and put in som ebrake fluid and put that over the bleeder (boy was the bleeder plugged).



I removed the locker light access panel to get to the main filler bottle for the lockers (sorry about the lack of technical jargin here).



I had to engage the 4x4 adn then lossen the bleeder...then go move the handle up again..jump back under and tighten...then move the handle to engage etc etc....this is what came out of her...bubbles and gunk...could be a new drink for kids right...well looks like ice tea anyway



here is the play by play video...I THINK if more ppl did these it would help ppl like me LOTS.

WILLY IS PLAYING IN THE BACKGROUND...HOW WEIRD IS THAT TO HAVE "ON THE ROAD" AGAIN PLAYING...must be someone looking out for me.



SO I took her for a test drive and all lockers work as they should now...whew...NOW CLUTCH...oh oh.

Jer Bear

[edzz]

here is the play by play video...I THINK if more ppl did these it would help ppl like me LOTS.

I agree. The problem comes “down the road” when the Photo / video is no longer on the hosting site. Text based descriptions are often harder to word and understand however they tend to live longer on the internet. Not saying I don’t appreciate photos or videos.

Ed