Engine does not start anymore

[Denis]

I really need help here. :?: :?: :?:

First I'm back from a long trip and on my way back it was like being in a carwash. :shock : It pouring so bad that at some point the fan belt was slipping on the pulley.

I made it almost home without a problem but maybe 5 miles before home it started to misfire and I barely made home. It finally stalls right in front of the driveway. Lucky me.

Now, yesterday I took apart the ignition system and cleaned everything in there. There was some humidity inside the cap but nothing to bad. I put everything back together and went for a test drive. Idle was good but when it reaches 3500 rpm no more power. I came back home and decide to check it back this morning.

This morning the truck is not starting at all. It cranks fine and I have no spark at the plugs. I checked everything and I have 12 volts before the noise suppressor before cranking and 24 volts when cranking. I checked my coil and first and second stage are in the spec but still no sparks.

I did switch coil and pertonix ignitor and nothing is working. I'm cleuless.

Please give suggestions and help. It's like I'm getting nowhere here. It is the first time I'm having such a hard time with a Pinz.

Denis

[edzz]

do you have spark at the coil when cranking? will the spark plug leads trigger a timing light?

[Denis]

No I have nothing going out of the coil wire.

And I don't understand why either. I have good current on both the positive and negative side of the coil and the wire going to the distributer is good with the right resistance.

Like I said I tried another coil and a new ignitor.

[StuartL]

Do you have electrical continuity between the distributor input and plug outputs? Has the coil output wire lost contact or something? Maybe water in the coil itself?

[Denis]

Yes I did check the continuity on all wires and everything is good. The distributor is not grounded too. The ground is good to the coil and nowhere else. But it is like I lose the current somewhere.

This morning I will remove the supressor and re do all the wiring to the coil and distributor.

I tried everyting I know and still nothing

Thanks for the help.

Denis

[Pinzgauer Pete]

Denis your problem sounds similar to mine however I am not at your final stage yet of not starting at all...mine acts up once it gets hot and then wont start until the engine cools down. When it is hot I have a intermittant spark and some backfiring and a severe loss of power. I had the same result as you with 11.8 at the input lead of the surpressor and 24 volts when cranking at the coil and then 17-21 volts depending upon rpm when the engine is running. I have changed the coil and cleaned all the connections but am stuck with where to proceed I do not want to just throw parts at this vehicle to repair it. I was told that the pertronix ignitor either works or fails and no in between so I am hesitant to buy one since my vehicle will start and run..just not for more than 20 minutes before it acts up. Please post your findings if you solve your problem, I will be interested in seeing what happens...good luck

[StuartL]

If you both have Pertronix ignitors and both have the same problem do either of you still have the points to try reinstalling them?

[Pinzgauer Pete]

No sadly the prior owner did not include the original points, coil, cap, or wires....think he sold them on ebay after converting to civi with pertronix.

[pinzinator]

Have you tried bypassing the RPM limiter? Does the idiot light come on for a second when you turn on the ignition switch? Just a guess on my part.

[Denis]

Well first thanks all for the help.

I got her running today. First I got the suppressor off and rebuilt the complete system. I had the civi conversion kit but with the old military coil on, now it is fully civi. I did put on new wires to both the positive and ground terminal of the coil and a new ignitor.

So I guess I had a short somewhere in those old wires.

Now it is running fine on idle but it is sputtering when the rpm pass 3000. It even like back fire in the treat of the carb.

This is very strange cause last week I did a 1000 km trip with my K fully loaded and its trailer at the back, she was pulling very good even in the long hill and trough all the trails I threw at her.

Tomorrow I will take the carbs off and rebuild them. The last time I did them was before my trip to Moab 3 years ago. So it's not too bad, because I did over 25 000 km without touching them.

Pinzgauer Pinz, I had the same problem with my 710 M, it was the coil that was shorting when it was hot. I change the coil and it fixed the problem. Hope it help you.

Pinzinator, how do by-pass that limiter??? I read it somewhere but cannot remember where and how to do it.

Again thanks and I will keep you posted on the following.

Denis

[pinzinator]

Search Jim LaGuardia's posts on how to by-pass the limiter. I think if it has a malfunction it could start to kill your ignition under certain conditions, such as moisture, or at a lower RPM.

[Denis]

Thanks Pinzinator, I will look for it and do it tomorrow too.

[edzz]

Denis have you rechecked the timing? Also are both the vacuum and mechanical advance systems functioning correctly?

[Denis]

yes the timing is correct and both the vacuum lin and the mechanical advance are in the spec. I did check the advance to make sure it is in the spec by using my programable timming light and adlusting the degrees of advance at different RPM.

I tried to find how to jump the rev limiter and could find it so I wrote to Jim and here is his answer. Thank you very much Jim.

Make a jumper wire with male spade terminals on each end, only need 2.5 inches of wire,
Unplug the black rev limit box and use the jumper wire to connect the 2 center terminals on the plug.
You should now have ignition voltage to coil + with key on.

Like I said I will by-pass the rev limiter and rebuild my carb today.

I will let you know of the progress.

Pinzgauer Pete did you check that resistance maybe it become to hot and cut the current and when it cools back down current can flow again..... Not sure but I would check it.

Denis

[Pinzgauer Pete]

yeah Denis, that was my very first step I changed the coil to the recommended bosch blue coil. I thought I had the problem licked since it ran great for a day or so then I took the cap off and readjusted the gap on the pertronix unit and realized that the previous owner did not shave down the base of the rotor as instructed in the E.I. installation methods. I was sure everything was good but this problem has recurred again. It will run great for 20 minutes or so then if I park it for a few minutes and go to start it it will only crank, the spark will become weak and intermittant..continued cranking will yield a massive backfire and if perchance it starts will barely run and if I keep fanning the accelerator pedal might get me rolling but bucking and backfiring as I go. If I leave the vehicle sit for a few hours it will run just fine once again, and because of this I do not believe it is a carburator issue and must be more of a ignition problem .